TwinTurbo.NET: Nissan 300ZX forum - 300Degree Camber Kit Install
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Subject 300Degree Camber Kit Install
     
Posted by PakiHomBoy on December 05, 2005 at 8:59 PM
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Message With the help of local Houston Z'er Mike (mgh), we installed the 300Degree camber kit on my car (thanks for the help Mike!). I couldn't find a writeup online when i was trying to get help, so i wanted to do a short writeup of how we did it for anyone else who will attempt this in the future. This is something i wanted to do all by myself, but i didnt have all the necessary tools. Mike had all the tools necessary and a few homemade gadgets that made this easy. This loosely follows the directions sent with the kit. I tried to make this writeup simple and to the point.

TOOLS:
10mm, 12mm, 14 mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets.
1/2" breaker bar
torque wrench
rubber mallet/hammer
various sized extensions

1) We were able to check how off my camber was with this. Mike constructed this on his own. You can buy a tool like this as well for about $150 or so.

2) Jack up the front end and secure with jack stands. Make sure the suspension gets stretched out. You may have to raise/lower the car to get it just right. Remove the wheel.


3) We did the passenger side first. Use your breaker bar and a 14mm socket to remove the 2 lower nuts of the bracket (2 yellow dots)

4) Then use your breaker bar and a 17mm socket to remove the upper bolts of the bracket (red dots).

5) Unplug the cruise control. Use a 10mm socket to remove the 2 bolts that are holding the cruise control bracket. Move the cruise control out of the way. We have already removed it in this picture.

6) We used a rubber mallet from inside the wheel well to knock the bolts/plate assembly out.

7) On the longer bolts, slip a lock washer and a regular washer on each bolt. From the engine bay, slide the 2 longer bolts through the top holes and into the wheel well. Now, slip a lock washer and regular washer on the shorter bolts. Slide 2 shorter bolts through the bottom holes into the wheel well. Put 1 of the shorter camber plates over the top two bolts. Put 1 of the longer camber plates over the bottom two bolts. It will look like this:

8) Apply the correct flat washer and nut to each bolt. The upper bolts are 19mm. The lower bolts are 17mm.

9) This is where 2 people come in handy. You need to torque the upper 2 bolts (the 19mm ones) to 85 ft lbs. And torque the lower bolts (17mm ones) to 50 ft lbs. I held the head of the bolt inside the engine bay with a wrench, while Mike torqued them.

10) Plug in the cruise control. Arrange the cruise control bracket over its original holes, and tighten. You are done with the passenger side.

11) For the driver side, you need some space to work, you will need to move the brake master cylinder out of the way. Remove the 2 12mm nuts holding it in place (yellow dot). You cant see it in the picture, but remove the nut on the other side as well.

Carefully move the BMC so it gives you the most space to work. Be careful not to tug on it or move it beyond its range. I moved it down and a little to the left, which gave me enough room to work. You don't want the fluid to pour/leak out.

12) You will once again be removing the plate/bolt assembly and installing the camber plates. REPEAT steps 3-9.

13) Put the BMC back in place. Reapply the nuts to hold it in place and tighten. Go inside the car, apply your foot on the brake and make sure it feels normal. You are now done.

If you are having trouble removing any of the bolts, try an extension. I know Mike used 2-3 different sized extensions to remove the nuts inside the wheel well.

Drive the car to see how it feels. Make sure to get an alignment after you install the camber kit.

This is how Mike and I installed the camber kit on my car. We may have skipped a step or two in the actual writeup, but we were successful in doing it this way. If you have any suggestions or notice a mistake in the writeup, please point it out.


     
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