| This isn't a particularly tough procedure but I don't think it's been posted before. Hopefully it will help someone out, it should at least be easier than flipping through the FSM. This is a follow up to this thread. Basically I discovered that my TPS switch was the cause of my timing problems. 
1 - If you are checking your idle or adjusting your timing as well, drive your car around the block to get it warmed up. I'm not going to talk much about timing or idle, they've been beaten to death already. 2 - First we'll check the operation of the TPS Switch. This switch is used by the ECU when the sensor is malfunctioning or unplugged. 
Check the continuity between "A" and "B". There should be continuity when the throttle is closed, and there should be no continuity when the throttle is open. If it works, good. If not, we'll get to adjusting it later. This isn't necessary for normal testing, but if you're having the same timing problems that I was having (reading was different with tps sensor plugged vs unplugged) try this: Take a paperclip or piece of wire and connect "C" and "D" together. Check your timing again, now you should get a good reading. Don't forget to remove the paperclip :). 3 - Now we'll check the TPS sensor. Unplug it. Put the key in "IGN" (you can start the engine if it makes you happy but it's not really necessary). 
The voltage from "A" (black wire) to ground should be 0V.
The voltage from "B" (orange/blue wire) to ground should be about 5V. Take the key out. (This isn't really necessary, but it's always a good idea to turn the power off before measuring resistances.) The resistance from "C" to "E" (black to red wires) should be about 9k ohms.
The resistance from "C" to "D" (black to white wires) should be about 1k ohm with the throttle closed. Slowly open the throttle, you should see the resistance rise to 9k ohms. 4 - Plug in the TPS. Get a small piece of solid (not stranded) wire and strip about 1/2" off of each end. Stick the wire up inside the TPS plug with the center (white) wire so that it makes contact on the inside. Hook up your mulimeter to read voltage between this little wire and ground. Put the key back in "IGN". 
The voltage should read between 0.4 and 0.5V with the throttle closed. (The spec for 1996 is actually 0.35 - 065V.) As you open the throttle it should go up to 4-5V. 5 - Time to adjust it. If everything is already within spec, then you're done. Adjusting it isn't rocket science. Leave the "switch" connector unplugged, and leave the "sensor" connector plugged in with the wire sticking out. Put the key in "IGN". Loosen the two screws on the top and bottom of the TPS. Your goal is to rotate it until the sensor voltage is within 0.4-0.5V, and there is continuity across the TPS switch. Ideally the TPS switch should cut off at about 900-950rpms. If you can't get both within spec at the same time you'll probably have to buy a new TPS. 6 - After you adjust the TPS, you will have to reset the idle position memory. If you don't, the ECU won't understand that it has a new baseline from the sensor. Make sure the engine is warm. Turn it off, wait 5 seconds. Disconnect the TPS sensor connector. Start engine, wait 3 seconds, then plug it in again.
Don't forget to plug everything in and take the wire out of the plug. Don't lose the stupid little spring clip.
7 - Now you can adjust your timing & idle if you need to.
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How to test and adjust your TPS switch & sensor - 
