| I just finished doing this today. I apologize for no pics and the briefness of this post, but I'll try to get a full write up (sans pics - sorry) at a later date. You don't have to lift the engine, and you don't have to remove any suspension components on either side. The driver's side wheel does need to come off. When you get the tie-rods disconnected, remove the high pressure and low pressure lines before you loosen the steering rack brackets (4x 17mm bolts). Otherwise it's tough to get enough torque to break loose stuck lines. Ask me how I know this... Also remove the bolt at the top knuckle where it attaches to the steering column. Don't worry about pulling this off, it will slide off in a minute. Now, remove the steering rack brackets. The passenger side is easy to lift off and get the bushing off. You'll have to leave the driver's side loose up there for a little bit. Don't forget to unclip the little electrical connector on the driver's side. Now, the entire rack should be able to slide towards the driver's side wheel well. After you slide it about one bushing width, you can now rotate it approximately 90 degrees. (Clockwise, looking from Driver's side of car) Now the trick. You have to remove one of the little (return?) lines that runs from the passenger side of the rack over to the driver's side. One goes all the way over to the passenger side, and has a large almost "U" bend in it that hits against the oil pan if you try and slide the rack out. This is what you need to remove. Once this is unscrewed from both ends, you can work it out of the well completely. Now the entire rack will slide out the driver's wheel well. It takes a little finageling (sp?), but wasn't all that hard. Installation is the reverse of above. This was my first steering rack R&R, and it took me about 5 hours. But I actually removed 2 racks (parts car) and installed 1. Sorry this isn't more detailed and pic-full (is that a word?) -Jason
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