| Search Terms: springs,
spring, struts, strut, shocks, install, installation,
installing, replace, replacing Timing:
When your
ride has become bouncy or bottoms out over minor bumps,
and/or doesn't handle like it used to. Tools
Needed:
Strut spring compressor (can usually get a
loaner for free from AutoZone, etc.)
Phillips Head
screwdriver
8mm, 10mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets
17mm,
19mm wrenches
1/2" ratchet
6" 1/2" extension
18"
Breaker bar
Floor jack
Two 2" x 6" at least 10" long
(for driving the front tires on to elevate the car so the
floor jack can get under it from the front)
2 Jack
stands
Bench Vise
Safety glasses Recommended:
Three 2x4s for use in propping wheel hub down for easier
strut removal; 1 @ 5.5", 1 @15", and 1 approximately
5" Parts Needed: Note: part numbers listed were
for my 90tt. Please double check with your vendor before
ordering to make sure they apply to your year of
car. Front Parts:
Front Struts
Springs - if
using Eibach springs part # ending in 01 goes on
front
Front strut gasket (spacer) x 2 - part #54329-
33P00
strut insulator - right side - part # 54320-
30P00
strut insulator - left side - part # 54321-
30P00
dust boots x 2 - part # 54055-33P20
Shock
brackets x 2 - part # 56115-33P50
Bumper stops x 2 - part
# 54050-33P20 Rear Parts:
Rear struts
Springs
- if using Eibach springs part # ending in 02 goes on
rear
Upper Nismo bushing x 2 - part # 56217-RS580
Rear
strut gasket x 2 part # 55338-35F00
Strut mounting
bracket x 2 part # 55322-30P06
Rear spring seat x 2 -
part # 55034-71L10
Rear Nismo insulator x 2 - part #
56218-RS580
Note: Dust boot and bumper covers come with
the OEM rear struts See Courtesyparts.com > Suspension for
diagrams of these parts. If you're considering using your
old rubber parts with your new springs and struts, take a
look at this pic of some of my old front strut parts.  <
p>As you can see by the condition, I would highly recommend
that you replace all rubber parts with new so you don't
have to do the job again because you skimped on ~$100 worth
of rubber parts.
Estimated Time to do
job:
Allow ~6 - 8 hours including clean-up your first
time with hand tools. An impact gun will make the job go
quicker, but you still need to allow time for any stubborn
bolts you may encounter. Rears will take longer then the
fronts because of the extra time needed to remove/reinstall
the interior trim. Disclaimer:
Note some of the
techniques listed in here to gain clearance for the strut
assemblies are my own techniques that I found very quick and
effective for the lone DIYer who may not have access to
specialized tools or a strong helper. However, if you do not
feel comfortable using them, then I recommend you devise
something else. Front Struts/Springs Removal and
Installation
1. First, drive your car onto the pieces
of wood or similar elevation. This is to allow room later
for sliding the floor jack under the car from the front
without hitting the spoiler. Set parking brake, then loosen
the lug nuts on the front wheels using the breaker bar and
the 21mm socket. Jack the car high enough to put jack stands
under each side then finish removing the wheels. 
2. Loosen the front sway bar bracket bolts (4) using the 6"
extension and the 14mm socket. You should only need to
remove the 2 opposite the U side of the bracket. This is to
allow movement of the bar so that you can get a ratchet and
socket on the lower strut bolt. 
3.
Pry off the plastic nut protector on the strut nut using a
flathead screwdriver and also remove the 10mm bolt holding
the brake line to the strut. 
4. Remove the strut nut using the 17mm socket and
ratchet 5. Move up to the engine bay. If you've got a tt,
remove the two 8mm strut actuator bolts and the 17mm
actuator bracket. Then remove the two 14mm mounting bolts.
Leave the other 17mm nut alone as that's holding the spring
tight. 
6. Once you've got all the nuts removed you want to
prop the wheel down to allow room to get the strut assembly
out. The easiest way I found to do this is to get a helper
(doesn't have to be anyone strong as my 11 year old
daughter helped me) so could be a girlfriend, wife, passing
stranger, etc. Stand on the brake caliper to put your
weight on it, then have your helper insert the pieces of
wood as shown. You may have to bounce slightly on it to gain
enough clearance for the 5 1/2" board to be inserted
perpendicular but it shouldn't take too much effort.
Obviously, the helper needs to take extra care in keeping
their fingers clear of the springs and the pieces of wood so
that nothing gets pinched if something should slip. Also
make sure the bottom horizontal board is positioned so as
not to impede the removal of the spring assembly once
everything is propped up.  <
p>7. Once you've got it propped up the strut will drop down
and you'll be able to dislodge it from the bottom strut
bolt by hitting it with your hand. After the bottom is clear
of the bolt, wiggle and manuever the spring assembly out,
taking care not catch it in the brake lines.
If you are
reusing the strut nut, washer, metal spacer, etc. you will
need to disassemble the assembly. But before you do, count
the threads showing above the strut nut. Also look at the
angle of the mounting bolts in relation to the strut. I used
the brake line bracket as a reference point. You will need
to install the new one in the same orientation so that the
mounting bolts fit thru the holes in the chassis. 
Also, if you're reinstalling OEM tt shocks, also take
note of the orientation of the flat side of strut threads so
that you can rotate the new one to face the same direction.
Take a pic with your digital camera or draw a picture if you
need help remembering! 8. Next, put on some safety
glasses, wrap the bottom of the assembly with a rag to
prevent scratching it, and squeeze it in your vice, then
apply the spring compressors as shown. Make sure your
compressors are firmly seated on the spring! Give each
spring compressor a few turns with the ratchet before
switching to the other one so that the spring compresses
equally. 
9. Once the top can be moved slightly by hand from
side to side it is safe to remove the top strut nut using
the 19mm wrench. It should loosen rather easily. If it
doesn't appear that way, then compress your spring a few
more turns each, otherwise the nut and other parts can come
flying off. 
10. Once the top has been removed, you can lift off
the springs and compressor to get them out of your way. If
you're just changing your springs just put the new one on
the strut and then reassemble in the reverse order you
removed the parts. Making sure to have the same number of
threads showing on the strut bolt once you've tightened the
strut nut fully. 11. If replacing the strut too, simply
remove the old strut and insert the new one into your vice
in the same position i.e. brake line bracket at the same
position as it was previously. Slide the new spring over
(flat and slightly larger end goes on top) and align with
bottom of strut "ledge" - should be fairly obvious. Then re-
assemble with your new parts. Tighten strut nut to expose
the same number of threads as were exposed on the old
strut. 12. With the boards still in place, reinstallation
will be fairly simple. Just manuever the assembly up into
place makings sure the brake line bracket is facing the same
position as when you removed it. Once you have it loosely in
position, slip it on the bottom strut bolt then align the
top bolts with the holes by looking down from above in the
engine bay and guiding it so the mounting bolts appear
through the mounting holes. 13. Then have your helper, or
do it yourself by using a wrench/breaker bar etc. to knock
the board out that's pushing down the wheel out of the way
while you are still eyeballing the alignment of the mounting
bolts from above. Do not use your hands to knock the board
loose! If for some reason you do not get both bolts to
come through the holes once the board is dislodged, gently
put some weight on the caliper to create a little space
while you or your helper nudge the bolt to the hole. 14.
Tighten the bottom bolt (72 lb/ft) and brake line bracket
bolt. If reinstalling the tt actuators, slip on the actuator
bracket and then slip the actuator on the strut bolt to
align the pin and the actuator. Remove it , then tighten the
bracket bolt and the mounting bolts (23 lb/ft), then the
actuator itself and your done. Go on to the other side and
it will probably go about 20% faster now that you have an
idea what you're doing.
Rear Struts/Springs
Removal and Installation
1. Unfortunately, you'll
need to remove all the rear trim to get to the rear strut
mounting bolts. Depending on if you've lost a screw or two
over the years, this will require anywhere from 10 -14 10mm
nuts, and about 6 - 10 10mm screws. Start at the middle by
the trunk latch and work your way around both sides. BTW, I
haven't done this on a 2+2 but I imagine it will probably
take even more work. =) 2. Once you've got it all removed
you'll be able to see the actuator and mounting bolts on
each side.  <
p>3. Remove the actuator, actuator bracket nut, and mounting
bolt nuts using 12mm and 14mm sockets, and either an 8mm or
phillips head screwdriver for the actuator. Take note of the
exposed threads showing on each strut after removal of the
acutator bracket and the direction the "flat" side of the
strut is facing.
4. Next, loosen lug nuts, jack up the rear of car
using center of rear of transmission as jack point and
insert jack stands appropriately. Remove rear wheels. 5.
Next, remove the strut bolts using your breaker bar with the
17mm socket and a 17mm wrench on the nut to hold it from
turning. 
6. Use the flat of your hand to strike the strut until
you knock it loose from the bracket. 
7. Now you'll want to get your helper again to help
prop the wheel down. This will be more difficult than the
front as the suspension is "tighter" in the rear. This
requires you to use the 15" length of wood as the prop and
the shorter piece as the base. Position it appropriately,
once again taking care not to impede the removal of the
strut assembly once you have it propped up. Then
stand/bounce slightly on the caliper until your helper can
force the prop into place. The picture below shows it ready
to be put into place. 
8. Once it's propped, manuever the assembly up over the
control arm and then out at an angle as you did the front.
9. Put the assembly in your vice as you did the fronts
and disassemble/reassemble with new parts. Take note again
of the angle of the mounting screws and flat side of strut
threads in relation to the strut as they will have to be in
the same position to fit back on your car. One caveat I
found with removing the strut nut is that sometimes it was
extremely tight and had been put on with Loctite. So I had
to use Liquid Wrench, and vice grips to hold the strut while
I twisted off the nut with the wrench. It took over 30
minutes to get one off after soaking with Liquid Wrench, so
be prepared for a possibility like that to arise. 
10. Once you're ready to reinstall the strut, manuever
it loosely back into the wheel well and through the control
arm. I found it best to get the bottom of the strut aligned
and the bottom bolt inserted before trying to align the top
mounting bolts. Again, take care not to use your hands when
removing the prop boards. Tighten the bolt to
72lbs/ft. 11. Align the acutator and tighten all the bolts
as you did on the front struts. 12. Lower the car and
reinstall your interior. 13. Have your car aligned as soon
as possible to bring your camber and toe back into
spec. 14. Note if you've installed the Eibach's or other
lowering springs you will need to install a camber kit like
the 300° kit before getting your car aligned. Enjoy your
new "ride"! doug8867
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Eibach Springs & Strut Installation/Replacement Writeup - 
