TwinTurbo.NET: Nissan 300ZX forum - 1990 Door Lock Actuator diagram woes
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Subject 1990 Door Lock Actuator diagram woes
     
Posted by lazer(NJ) on August 10, 2016 at 8:50 PM
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Message First, let me start by pointing out that the 1990 FSM for the driver side door lock wiring diagram is for an EU/AUS car which has a 4 pin connector. My 1990 US car has a 6 pin connector (with 5 wires) plus an additional 2 pin connector coming from the door latch mechanism. Now I was trying to swap in a 94+ assembly so that I'd have a door lock actuator built into the drivers side door.

The +94 lock mechanism has the same 6 pin connector (no 2 pin connector) and 6 wires total. Now by using a continuity I was able to discern that the black two-pin connector was simply a switch to verify that the door was latched. I was also able to determine which pins off the new harness did the same job. Turns out they also need the door to be locked. The result is that my seat-belt symbol stay lit unless the door is both closed an locked. Not really a bit deal to me.

So now I'm left with 4 of the 6 pins off the new connector and the 5 pins of the original connector. So I took the 1990 unit apart. Here's where it gets interesting.....

I had assumed that the DS door had an internal switch that when closed would complete a circuit telling the PS door to lock. That and more. The DS module appears to have power and ground running to it (red and black wire). There is an electronic switch which connects one circuit or the other to ground depending on if it's up or down. From what I can tell the Normally Open lead connects to the yellow wire. The common connects to the black wire (ground). The Normally closed lead goes to one of the 9VDC relay, possibly the other through a set of transistors resistors and inductors. Anyway, it's pretty clear that the green and blue wires are connected to the NC branch of the circuit.

The whole goal of this was to get rid of my aftermarket driver side door actuator and use an OEM one in the mechanism itself. I need to do some more digging but I suspect I'll be able to wire the aftermarket lock/unlock wires straight into the blue/green wire but I need to verify.




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