As far as your connectors go, I would skip to checking a few key connections. Namely the AAC, FICD, AICV mentioned above, the PTU subharness (the PTU itself has weatherproof connectors that I have never seen corrode), water temp and gauge sensors on the front coolant pipe. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Where were you grounding your DMM? If through the plug, try grounding directly to the chassis. Usually a bad ground shows up like you describe (the DMM displays erratic, low voltage readings when sensing power) ------------------------------------------------------------------ Unless you hear a definite knocking noise (not a miss, but a knock)... It just sounds like the car is having a hard time raising the idle upon initial start. If you have the time, I would try cleaning the IACV (+FICD) and AAC. Theyre both on the back of the upper intake plenum, takes 10mm socket to remove. Youll need a new gasket too. It would be more believable if it were having trouble idling as well, but its worth a shot. If you want to try more of a fast and dirty method, tap them with a wrench or other solid object, I have been able to free up a stuck AAC doing that (then I removed it and cleaned it the proper way) As far as your connectors go, I would skip to checking a few key connections. Namely the AAC, FICD, AICV mentioned above, the PTU subharness (the PTU itself has weatherproof connectors that I have never seen corrode), water temp and gauge sensors on the front coolant pipe.
------------------------------------------------------------------ 1992 300ZX NA 5 Sp (Dead) 1990 300ZX NA Auto 2+2 (Dead) 1990 300ZX TT 5 Sp (Stock Turbos) (Est. 400 HP) 1990 300ZX TT 5 Sp (GT600R) (Est. 600 HP) 2004 G35 Sport 6MT (DD) 2008 Honda Civic (DD) 1969 Chevy C10 (Toy) 1969 Chevelle (Toy) |