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Subject In order...
     
Posted by -Grimm- on January 25, 2016 at 10:24 AM
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In Reply To electrical connectors, washer pump, and startup knocking posted by burntclutch on January 24, 2016 at 08:08 PM
     
Message As far as your connectors go, I would skip to checking a few key connections. Namely the AAC, FICD, AICV mentioned above, the PTU subharness (the PTU itself has weatherproof connectors that I have never seen corrode), water temp and gauge sensors on the front coolant pipe.

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Where were you grounding your DMM? If through the plug, try grounding directly to the chassis. Usually a bad ground shows up like you describe (the DMM displays erratic, low voltage readings when sensing power)

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Unless you hear a definite knocking noise (not a miss, but a knock)... It just sounds like the car is having a hard time raising the idle upon initial start.

If you have the time, I would try cleaning the IACV (+FICD) and AAC.

Theyre both on the back of the upper intake plenum, takes 10mm socket to remove. Youll need a new gasket too.

It would be more believable if it were having trouble idling as well, but its worth a shot. If you want to try more of a fast and dirty method, tap them with a wrench or other solid object, I have been able to free up a stuck AAC doing that (then I removed it and cleaned it the proper way)

As far as your connectors go, I would skip to checking a few key connections. Namely the AAC, FICD, AICV mentioned above, the PTU subharness (the PTU itself has weatherproof connectors that I have never seen corrode), water temp and gauge sensors on the front coolant pipe.

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1992 300ZX NA 5 Sp (Dead)
1990 300ZX NA Auto 2+2 (Dead)
1990 300ZX TT 5 Sp (Stock Turbos) (Est. 400 HP)
1990 300ZX TT 5 Sp (GT600R) (Est. 600 HP)
2004 G35 Sport 6MT (DD)
2008 Honda Civic (DD)
1969 Chevy C10 (Toy)
1969 Chevelle (Toy)

     
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