| But #2: I deleted all HICAS hard lines 100%. I used aviator snips a few times to get all lines out without having to remove rear subframe. I removed the HICAS solenoid and left the remaining wiring connector there, doubt it'll be an issue. I'm using rear toe rods (driftworks) which replace the stock HICAS ones so I didn't need a HICAS delete lock bar. Not 100% familiar with the Z1 kit but IIRC, their kit just uses a fitting to allow use of the stock tt p/s reservoir. I'm using all NA components now so I didn't need their fitting. #3: Delete upper clutch bleed. Replace steering rack bushings and high psi p/s hose. change all a/c o-rings if your compressor is unbolted from the a/c lines. Maybe relocate your charcoal cannister towards the rear of the vehicle. If replacing fuel feed line, now is a good time especially if you're going to be deleting HICAS hardline anyways. Install EFI harness and relocate the PTU. Flush differential fluid. Check inner/outer tie rods and all suspension bushings while car is in the air.
________________Sig Separator________________________ Selling lightly used ACT full-face sprung clutch kit: $300 + shipping ConUS!Twin Turbo aluminum front calipers: $200 + shipping. Needs paint or will paint red for additional $50 Parting out my entire 1990 twin turbo! Please email me for needed parts!
See profile for my WTB/WTT list as well. |
