| Before I mounted the engine on the stand I did this in rear with a few scrap pieces of aluminum bar stock (works best if timing mark is at TDC for later part of this work). The aluminum sticks up on top so a small piece of wood can be wedged between it and the engine stand arm. 
This kept the crank shaft from turning and allows the easy removal of the CAM and Crank shaft bolts. I also put c-clamps on the CAMs to make sure the t-belt doesn't slip while un-doing (and later re-doing) the CAM bolts. Do all your work installing seals, etc -- re-install the old belt (just put it on) and then re-tighten the CAM bolts to spec. Now install the new t-belt properly against the alignment marks. Undo the strap in the back and then set the tensioner gap by rotating the crank bolt (per the t-belt FAQ). Only downside on the way I did it -- had to remove the engine from the stand to undo that strap. If I did this again I'd cut slots in the strap (opposite side of how the crank turns) so the rear crank flange bolts could be loosened and the aluminum strap removed without having to take the engine off the stand...
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I'm prep'ing an engine and doing most of the work alone.... - 
