| OK, after much ado I finally got this sucker back together and idling normalish (still around 950-1k with AAC/IACV on). RE-pulled the plenum. I fixed the major fuel leak coming out the backside of one of my CZP hardlines I used on my 300 degree rails. I switched to the SZ braided line kit. All I want to say about it is that it is a bit tricky to install with the stock regulator/dampener in their stock locations....especially if you re-routed the PCVs to the top of the intake valve covers. Be prepared to get creative with the lengths of the short FI hose "couplers" that connect the reg/dampener to the SZ lines' hose barb ends in order to manipulate the SZ lines to where they need to be in order to fit everything under the balance tube (if you have re-routed your PCV's). Plus you will need to bend the lower inlet on the regulator upwards, which made me nervous as shit. Every millimeter of space directly under the balance tube's vacuum tree is going to be used and you have to be careful not to break the connector to the air regulator(?) that resides in close proximity. It is certainly a PITA with the pcv re-route, and based on the amount of track time my Z has seen since performing it, I'm honestly regretting having done it. Put plenum back in place, everything hooked up, start the car.....bouncing idle AGAIN. Check for fuel leak again, none. Everything is hooked up, vacuum-wise (I have done all the normal deletes). So before hitting the FSM again, I decide to screw my idle screw back in (it was WAY in before and I let it out most of the way because I assumed it couldnt be right and was masking something I should correct). Sure enough partway in and the bouncing begins to subside, kept screwing in the idle screw (with AAC activated) and the bouncing stops. YES! But I have a high idle, around 1800-2000rpm. Started high idle checklist in FSM, got to the step on checking the throttle cables (I was concerned the PCV lines were hampering them so I decide to unhook them from the throttle body linkage). Loosened the cruise control cable to unhook it and idle drops significantly. Loosen the throttle cable, and the idle drops the rest of the way down to 1000-1100 or so. Re-connected cables after loosening them further, and with the BlaZt cable and Datascan program, I got the idle down to 750-800rpm, but when I turn the AAC back on it jumps to a value of 33 and the idle rises back up to 1000rpm. Not sure what to do about that yet. Testing for boost leaks at another TTnet member's house in the morning, and then I will tinker with it some more and see if I can get the idle closer to 750rpm. Please take a look at the datalog I took while idling and tell me if anything looks odd to you (I can email the file if you would like to see the whole plot). It has come to my attention that my AIRFLOW value may be on the high-side for a dual POP/MAF car. I believe I need to re-adjust my TPS as it seems to have dipped down to .28v somehow after I had it at .42v. Also my coolant temp will rise up to 200F when idling, time for a new fan clutch?
Anything else?
 "The American people will never knowingly adopt socialism. But, under the name of "liberalism", they will adopt every principle of our socialist program, until one day America will be a socialist nation, without ever knowing how it happened.... I no longer need to run on the Socialist Party ticket because the Democrat Party has now adopted our platform."
--Norman Thomas, 1944 Socialist Party Presidential Candidate "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery."
--Winston Churchill |
