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Aha! This is great stuff, Doug, thanks so much. It's very hard to come by knowledge. The orange wires in the harness under the hood near the relay box are two in number. I got out my multi-meter and found that one has 12volts, the other nothing, whether the key is on or off. Here's a really interesting thing: when you pull the ign coil relay, and meter the voltage to ground on sockets 1, 2, BOTH show +12Volts!!! Now, that cannot be. You cannot operate an electromagnet (like inside the relay) using two +12volt wires in the activation switch..one has to be +12, the other "ground". Neither 1 or 2 show ground in any ignition position..instead they both show +12 at all times. The probability is the alarm installer mixed up the two orange wires, and now has sent an "extra" 12 volts to the wrong side of the relay, meanwhile other systems are being deprived of the +12 volts they need to operate. And sure enough many things on the car suddenly don't work now, like the electric door lock, who knows what else. The fuel pump seems to come up, however. The plugs are wet but no spark, and there's 12 volts at the wire to the plugs when ignition is on. Ok, so first I need to cut-and-reverse the two orange wires.
I will try that and report back before anymore speculation, like you say "all bets are off" until the wiring is back to stock. I doubt stock is pins 1,2 both +12 volts on ANY relay anywhere in the world! heheh. could be fixed soon? I hope.
:pump controller, and air regulator. There is also another wire that goes to
:the ignition switch. However these wires are shown as solid orange in the
:wiring diagram (back of EFEC section) in the service manual for my 90tt.
:But all the items play a role in starting a car.
:There are testing procedures for each of the items using a multimeter
:listed in the EFEC section of the manual. The working specs of each
:device are listed there. I would test each item starting with the fuel pump
:controller and fuel pump. (when you turn the key to the start position do
:you hear the fuel pump priming behind the driver's seat? If not, then the
:pump or controller or wiring leading to it could be your problem)
:If the items test okay, then I would get a helper to help you test the
:continuity from the item to the ECU terminal to see if there is a break in the
:wiring preventing the signal from passing through.
:Hope that helps.
:ps. there are PTU testing specs in the EFEC section as well if want to test
:that device, and make sure all your connectors are free from corrosion.
:You can clean them with small pic and electrical contact cleaner, and then
:dielectric grease.
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13:00:59 05/01/08
