| The ADE System is designed to be self-disabling. When you turn the Ignition Key “OFF”, the car cannot be restarted unless and until you momentarily “swipe” a magnet over a hidden reed switch. The hidden reed switch is the “Key”, both figuratively and literally, to this systems success. Only you will know where the reed switch is located as there will be is no outward visual sign. The ADE System uses one Double Pole / Double Throw (DPDT) relay that is wired to your car's wiring harness, a diode, and a hidden reed switch. This relay will be inserted in the wiring harness at a point that controls multiple critical circuits required for your car to run. The DPDT relay will be wired in both parallel and series to the reed switch and the vehicle's critical circuits. This creates a self-latching circuit that allows the DPDT Relay “Coil” to be maintained in the active state once the relay has been tripped by swiping the magnet over the reed switch. (Once activated, the reed switch is no longer in the circuit.) In order to start the car after the ADE System is installed you will need to follow this sequence. 1.Turn ignition key to the “On” or “Run” position
2.Swipe a magnet over Hidden Reed Switch (To activate the ADE System and car's critical circuits)
3.Turn Ignition Key to “Start” Without swiping the magnet, or knowing where to swipe the magnet, your vehicle will crank over but it isn’t going to go anywhere under its own power. And now for the 300zx specific info: The ADE system will wire in with the fuel pump relay wire. AKA, the black wire used in this writeup ([ http://www.yugobernie.com/images/Fuel_Kill_Switch/fpks.html ]). Here is the materials list to build your own system, most of these items can be found at your local radio shack, so I have included part numbers, however, the magnetic switch is no longer available there, so you will need to find one online or at your local home security store. Parts List:
Item Part number Price
1 DPDT relay - 275-218c - $8.49
Relay Socket - 275-220 - $2.99
Magnetic Reed Switch- 49-505- $2.99 for normally closed loop
Diode- 276-1104 - $.99
Small household magnet
Eye hook terminal end
16-20 gauge wire
rtv silicone This is the switch I use now, it comes from [ www.partsexpress.com: ] 
Here is an image of the relay socket: 
and the diode: 
OK, now lets build the circuit: in order to understand this, you have to understand that the replay socket has all of the connections numbered 1,2,3,4,5,6,a, and b. I will be referring to these connection points through the following section: Here is an image of the wiring diagram, please excuse the ade and connector info, as this is for my jeep: 
Step 1: Relay Jumper Wires and Diode
You are going to wire up the two blue jumper wires and the diode as shown in the ADE System circuit drawing. Connect a jumper wire between pins 5 and 6 on the relay plug. (Use 18 or 20 gauge wire). Connect a second jumper wire between pins 5 and pin “A”. Connect the diode to pins “A” and “B”. NOTE: The diode body has a ring painted around it. Connect the wire closest to this ring to pin “A”. If you do this backwards the circuit will not work. Solder only the pins 6, and “A”. You will solder the others later. Step 2: Reed Switch Wires
Take a look at the length of the reed switch wires. If you think they will not be long enough to reach where you want to hide the reed switch, now would be a good time to lengthen them. If you do lengthen these wires please solder them and cover with heat shrink insulation. Connect one wire from the reed switch to pin 3 on the relay socket. Connect the second reed switch wire to pin 5 of the relay socket. It does not matter which wire is connected to which pin. Solder only pin 5 at this time. At this time take the relay, reed switch and wiring over to your car, find the fuel relay wire mentioned earlier and cut it. Extend the wires and solder one end to pin #3 and the other end to pin #4. Step 3: Ground
Connect a short ground lead to pin B and ground to the chassis. Solder all remaining connections and the wiring is now complete.
Step 4: Testing
Test A:
Plug the DPDT Relay in the relay socket.
Reconnect both the positive and negative battery terminals.
Sit in the driver’s seat and try to start your car.
The engine should crank over but it shouldn’t run.
Test B:
Turn the Ignition Key to the On position.
Take your magnet and momentarily place it on the reed switch. (You should hear the relay latch shut.)
Turn the Ignition Key to Start.
Your car should crank over and the engine should run.
(See!! You wired it up correctly!)
Step 5: Locate Reed Switch
Now that you know the system works, you need to decide where you want to hide the reed switch. DO THIS RIGHT! Hide it inside the dashboard or some other plastic part of your car. Make sure you will be able to swipe the reed switch with a magnet in this location.
Once you have settled on a location, take the plastic apart so you can glue the reed switch to the underside. If you are using the Radio Shack Reed Switch, which I recommended, you can mount the switch in any direction and it will still work. I like the flat top of the reed switch to glue it down. RTV silicone or epoxy glue should work fine. Let the glue dry and then reassemble everything. Don’t tell anyone who doesn’t have a need to know where the reed switch is located!!!!
Step 6: Re-Test
Go back to Step 5 and re-test the ADE System with Test A and Test B.
Please note the Radio Shack Reed Switch or a similar style, it comes with a small magnet. I have found this magnet to be very weak and easy to lose. Run over to Ace Hardware and buy a couple of donut shaped magnets about the size of a quarter. Keep one wherever you want to keep it and stick the extras to the underside of the hood inside the engine compartment just in case.
Step 7: Cleanup and Make Neat
Make your installation of the ADE System look neat! Factory Look!
Re-tape the wiring harness with electrical tape. Also place a dap of RTV or epoxy glue on the top of the relay housing and glue it to the side lick panel near Connector 106. When you’re done, IF anyone should ever stick their head all the way under the driver side kick panel area all they should see is “factory look stuff”. You’re Done! Sorry for the long post, but I felt that it was necessary in order to fully explain the system. Also, an override switch can be added to the system incase you lose your magnet, or your relay goes bad etc. I will add this info tomorrow, since its midnight and I have work tomorrow.
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Here is my solution, complete with part numbers - 
