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Subject How-To: Installing GM Style Injector Connectors
     
Posted by jzack on February 02, 2008 at 5:58 PM
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Message How-To: Installing GM Style Injector Connectors

When I replaced my injectors last winter I decided to change out the OEM clip style connectors with those commonly referenced as “GM Style”. These connectors (technically: Bosch-style L-Jet) are a much nicer design than the original ones used by Nissan. They’re made of better/thicker plastic, have sturdier seals and NO hold-down clips to loose!!! I’ve used these connectors for both the injectors and the solenoids controlling the AAC, AIV, EGR, FICD, IACV and PRVR subsystems.

Here’s what they look like from the bottom side:

Buying Them: Connectors can be ordered from this on-line web site, CLICK HERE >> La-Z-Link
Note: Be sure to pay the extra $1 and order them with the wires attached. Shipping is pretty fast – rec’d them in a few days.


These connectors do require a little prep work for fitting to the injectors – these modifications can be done in 15-20 minutes:

- A small amount of “tab”grinding needs to be done for #5 and #6 injectors . These connectors need a little extra clearance due to the nearby routing of the source and return fuel feed pipes at the ends of the fuel rail.

- All the connector caps need a small amount of grinding to allow a better fit against the injector’s (metal) cover caps. They will fit without this grinding – but doing it does allow the capture clip to grab the injector side tabs better.

This should make it clearer...

Note: I used my Dremel tool with a tapered grinding stone to shape all edges of the plastic connectors, a sanding drum would work too! It goes fast – so take your time, just a little bit of material needs to be removed!!!


Here’s what needs to be done on the injectors themselves:
- The polarity locator pin on all the injectors needs to be removed. The GM style connectors won’t mate properly if left in place.
- It should be noted that the injectors are not polarity sensitive to current flow!!!



Note: I recommend wrapping the injector’s (fuel screen) body in some low adhesive masking tape. It keeps the Dremeled-off plastic from making a mess and getting all over the fuel screen filter.

Here’s a connector sitting next to an injector with the locator tab removed.

Here’s the #5 injector – notice how the injector has been installed in the rail at a slight angle? That little bit of turning provided the new connector with a bit more clearance from the nearby fuel pipe.

This is a trick I’ve used to release the connector’s quick-clip from the injectors in both #5 and #6 positions. I’ve actually done this with the plenum installed and it works well – just pry and gently tug on the wires. (Pictured is #6 injector)

Here’s a shot of the new connectors being readied for installation on the AAC and FICD solenoids. I colored coded, with Yellow Tape, the connector used for the idle control solenoid – similar to what Nissan does.

Modification Tip: When I spliced in the idle control GM connector I also inserted a PINK male/female quick disconnect into one of the feed wires. Now I no longer need to contort myself trying to remove the Yellow connector from its solenoid to correctly set the car’s idle speed! Instead, I just pull apart the PINK connector which has been tucked into an easy to reach location near the balance tube nut.

Note: Unlike the injector’s (if I’m remembering correctly from last Spring?) none of the polarity/locator pins on the various control solenoids needs to be ground down. The GM connectors should fit all of them just fine – at least verify that’s the case before going through the effort to grind any of them down!!!


**********Connecting Wires in the Engine Bay**********


Reference: For additional reading & forum comments, here’s an Auto-FAQ in the archives that covers this topic as well: Click Here >> La-Z-Link

One of the things I’ve noticed over the years is how carelessly some engine bay electrical connections are done, especially in exposed areas. Unlike inside the cabin or under the dash, the engine bay is a pretty hostile environment due to heat and moisture. One key thing to do is to make sure any exposed wires are securely connected, well covered and protected. Below are some tips that I’d like to pass along…

Usually this is how two wires are connected in an engine bay FI connector splice:

Next, the wires are soldered together to make a solid permanent connection.
Note: I use a temperature controlled soldering station for all of my work. It has an upper heat limit of 900 degrees F and that pretty much guarantees no cold solder joints. At the very least – I’d recommend using no less than a 45-50 watt iron for this type of work. It also helps to apply paste type soldering flux to the joint before soldering.

For wires in awkward locations or under some tension, I prefer to use non-insulated crimp style butt connectors. They make it easier to get the wires connected -- once crimped, I solder everything together for a final tight connection.

Buying Them: Radio Shack carries these as part #64-3036 (20 pack, Non-Insulated Crimp On Butt Connectors)

Regardless of the way that the wires are connected – it’s still necessary to protect them. I like to apply electrical tape over the wires or butt connectors.

Next, I apply a length of heat shrink tubing – the tubing keeps the tape from coming undone over time. Just don’t forget to slip the right sized tubing over the wires before connecting everything together (yes, sadly – I’ve forgotten a few times myself and had to pull everything apart!!!).

Note: They also make a type of shrink tubing which has heat activated sealing adhesive applied to the inside walls. This is a nice way to go as well, here’s a place where you can get it, but it ain’t cheap! – Click Here >> La-Z-Link

Although this is the minimum that should be done – I prefer to finish off exposed bay wiring with an over-covering of heat rated split wire loom. If the wire loom is in a moisture intense location it can be covered using COLD seal tape. Cold seal tape chemically bonds to itself in a short period of time and can only be removed via cutting. Cold seal tape can also be used in place of shrink wrap tubing – but it’s much thicker and makes the spliced junction bulkier in size.

Buying Them:
- Good quality wire loom can be found at this web site: La-Z-Link
- Cold seal tape can be found here (@ Eastwood Company): http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=1387&keyword=25051&cm_mmc=undefined ]">La-Z-Link

Here’s a picture of my refurbished FI harness. All the spliced portion of the connections were multi-sealed using tape, heat shrink, split wire loom or a finish layer of heat shrink and finally some portions were finish “dress” taped (yes, anal to the max!!!).

Last tips: When installing crimp connects in the engine bay be sure to use a type that fully seals when pushed together. There are some connectors, like the bullet ones or car store insulated butt connectors, that don’t seal. It’s also a good idea to apply some dielectric grease to the fittings and contacts before they are pushed together. The grease helps to seal out dirt and moisture. For heavy duty applications (i.e., high current lighting wires, etc) I’d recommend getting a good quality male/female multi-wire auto plug rather than using individual crimp type connectors.

When I assemble a quick disconnect to its wiring – I use a little dielectric grease on the insulation end (before final crimping) to seal as well.

Lastly – I finished off the ends of the crimp connector with heat shrink tubing and then a top covering if needed.


DISCLAIMERS…

READ AND FOLLOW ALL SAFETY PROCEDURES RECOMMENDED IN THE NISSAN SERVICE MANUAL FOR WORK ON THE 300ZX Z32 ENGINE. MAKE SURE THE CAR’S ENGINE IS COLD TO AVOID BURNS AND DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE STARTING ANY WORK. ALWAYS TAKE PROPER SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND USE COMMON SENSE WHEN WORKING ON THE ENGINE AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.
YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY WHEN WORKING ON YOUR CAR. THIS WRITE-UP IS AN EXAMPLE OF ONE WAY TO PERFORM THIS MAINTENANCE, IT MAY NOT BE THE SAFEST OR BEST WAY TO DO IT. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR DETERMINING HOW THESE REPAIRS SHOULD BE EXECUTED IN A SAFE AND CAUTIOUS MANNER -- AUTHOR IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY HARM TO YOU, YOUR CAR, FUTURE GENERATIONS, YOUR PROPERTY OR TO OTHERS WHILE OR AFTER PEFORMING THIS OR ANY OTHER AUTOMOBILE SERVICING... .

     
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