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Nothing personal. I'd advise you to do the same. It is just a car. I know you have a lot vested in this, so you have inserted yourself into the thread, but don't take any of this as a personal attack. A) Base timing was what I was looking for. Sorry for not being explicit. Thanks for the info. My "most people" statement is precisely why you are explaining to me about hearing detonation over the sound of external wastegates and timing maps. B) Just looking for the curve, that's all. The lowest point could be a dip for all we know. We are hoping we see a nice flat line. Again, not slamming. Just looking for that pretty chart. I know it is out there. Why the secrecy? I love to share good news with my fellow enthusiasts. C) What was the continual adjustment involving? Frankly, you tighten down the spring, the wastegates hold more boost. The springs are tightened down all the way, they hold 21psi. The boost may flash up to maybe 25psi, but I've always seen it drop off immediately. I have this on video. How about anyone else out these that has done runs over 21psi on the tpe-S wastegates? Got those runs on video w/boost monitored? D) Why not? Is the air blowing across your I/C supercooled when driving down the highway? Just curious. If, like everyone says, freezing the ICs makes such a miniscule difference, why not do some before/after testing? (It has been doen, BTW). E) "Probably"; the freeze numbers "are consistent with what this car makes on the street." I'm not seeing anything other than opinion to back this up. Sounds like we will just have to agree to disagree. I would disagree that the freeze numbers are consistent with what the car makes on the street. Setting aside the whole SAE/actual argument as correction factors apply to turbocharged cars (which is entirely valid), and the fact that the hood should be closed for dyno runs if at all practical, there certainly is something to be said for the fact that there is very little air moving across any of the air exchangers, regardless of whatever fan system may be in place, on the dyno, versus air moving in and out at X mph on the highway, and there is some loss to be associated with that on the dyno, IMHO. I'm not quite sure I would agree that is equivalent to the gain realized by freezing the IC. I am not alone in this doubt. This has been a well-known trick for some time. How many well-regarded enthusiasts out there are freezing their ICs for dyno numbers? How many people are being totally forthright about it, especially if it is so insignificant a power gain, and so legitimate a representation of street power? F) So this means that just adding a 60 shot and a custom PROM on my car would result in more than 744 RWHP on the street (sans freeze)? Even though I do not have the ASH multi-program ECU (as if I could not simply have multiple programs with the swap of a PROM and many JWT ECU owners have done for years), I somehow managed to put down pretty similar numbers without the NOS/freeze. I suspect that if I were to do so (add the 60 shot and PROM), and the numbers did not happen (except with the freeze), you would find the ECU/PROM at fault. Adding a dry shot to my car will be cheap. I have considered this more than once. Although, I'd rather add nitrous to the G sedan..... All in good fun, people. I need to quit flapping my gums and dyno my POS. It will be nice to see some lovely 110 degree ambient temp dyno numbers again, courtesy of your buddy and mine, Kyle P. Lets just see if this crappy old car can hit 600 SAE to the tire. No Nitrous. No freeze. Sidemount I/Cs so hot you can't even touch them. 21 psi or less. Hot ass Texas temps. 15 degrees base timing. Then we can go from there. 8-)
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