| My second try on doing this, and it still isn't perfect, but I'm getting close. Getting the rear panel perfectly black and smooth, without the "300ZX" logo is not as easy at it sounds. Typical Z project, three times as expensive and four times as long as I thought it would take, lol. The problem is that the logo is raised plastic on the reverse side of the panel, so even after sanding and painting it from the inside you can still see the symbols because they are one-piece with the plastic. Just sanding them down is not that easy, since if the panel gets scratched or marred at all on the inside, it shows through plain as day on the visible side. I used the most excellent FAQ on "How do I make the 300ZX on the rear panel glow?" as my guide. The four brads along the top edge of the panel that must be removed are threaded so twisting them CCW does help, but mainly you just pry them out with a pen knife. I would recommend setting the oven a little cooler, to about 300-350 degrees and taking your time. That will minimize any curling of the edges on the softer, plastic backing that houses the lights. Don't hesitate to work the panel a few times to and from the oven. Since they logo is raised, I found that scraping with the flat edge of a pocket knife was much faster and cleaner than sanding. 
TAKE YOUR TIME. Scraping the paint off takes over an hour. Take extra care not to knick or scratch the surrounding flat panel. It is much harder to remove scratches you make than to simply take your time and not scratch the panel in the first place. With the paint off the raised symbols, the plastic is clear and transparent. Hold the panel up to the light every now and then as you work and you will be able to see every little paint speck you are trying to remove. You must remove every last, small fleck of the original logo paint, otherwise it will be very noticeable once you start covering it with the black paint, and then it's too late to go back unless you start over. The pic shows the panel from the inside, with the black paint scraped OFF, and just a little scraping left to do on the middle zero. You are scraping two coats of paint off. The gray color of the logo was under the black topcoat. I sanded the logo lightly after the paint was off. 
The type of paint used was a huge issue. For some strange reason, paint does not want to adhere to the bare plastic on the logo. I tried three different black spray paints and they either wouldn't stick, or would start to "crackle" after repeated coats. The black paint I ended up using that worked was called "Plaid Paint For Plastic." I bought it at a Michael's, an arts and crafts mega-store chain. The paint was very thick and goopy. I prepped the plastic with alcohol as per the instructions on the paint bottle. I applied five or six coats with a small brush before the paint was opaque enough. The paint was a water-soluble acrylic and cost $2. A pack of cheap brushes was $1. The pic also shows the Novus system I used for three step removal of scratches on the surface of the panel, which I recommend. 
The paint on the back of the panel doesn't have to be pitch black. In fact, when you take the panel apart, you will notice that you can see light coming through parts of it. That is because once it is sealed with its black plastic backing piece, no light can enter from behind and the front will look black as much from darkness as it does the paint. When squishing the panels back together, I heated the oven to 300 degrees and just used my hands for about three or four cycles of heating and squeezing. The results were excellent and there was no need for clamps. The only part you can burn yourself on are the metal studs that stick out the back. The plastic you can handle and squeeze while it cools over a minute or so. You can still barely see the logo when a strong, direct light hits from certain angles. On the car, where it counts, it looks solid black as shown in the pictures, especially after a few minutes of road grime, lol. That is my Kaminari 60 LED spoiler that I also intentionally left the decals off of. 
Prob if I did it again I would scrape, sand or grind down the letters a little further. However, I don't think it would be wise to sand them off flush with the surface, as this would most likely lead to scratches and gouges that would be much more noticeable than what I was left with. I thought of using a Dremel to take down the logo, but the FAQ author stated when he tried that it melted the plastic. I welcome any suggestions.
The panel is much more "stealthy" than before, and I am happy with it, even though it's not "perfect." No one but a fellow Z fanatic would notice, and I will leave it like it is for now, although I still have one panel left to play with. There are no longer any decals or emblems on my car's body. This was the "badgeless" look I was going for. My friend Lou from Manhattan also owns a TT. He says they call it "sleeper" style in the City :c)
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How I blacked out my rear center panel. - 
