TwinTurbo.NET: Nissan 300ZX forum - 1500 grit is recommended for cars with cured paint
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Subject 1500 grit is recommended for cars with cured paint
     
Posted by markpearl91tt on May 29, 2003 at 10:26 PM
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In Reply To Wetsanding, Buffing, Polishing: 101 - The things the 'pros' posted by AshsZ (FabZEM All) on May 29, 2003 at 09:21 PM
     
Message I've also done this a number of times, but usually a person would only use 2000 grit as the initial paper grade if the paint were less than 30 days old. Of course, it doesn't make a huge difference if you do use 2000 to start, but you'll end up spending a good bit more time getting the orange peel out.


I do agree with your graduated process of papers though. Most manufacturers recommend just using the initial grade of paper followed by buffing compounds ... it takes much longer that way. I like doing what you did - use one grade of paper followed by a finer one. Then comes the eternal buffing (if doing it by hand). A buffer would be a lot quicker, but I would recommend that a first timer do it by hand to avoid paint burns and edge over-buffing.


I haven't tried the Meguiars, but it looks good. I've used the 3M series of compounds (Fine Cut Buffing Compound, Swirl Mark Remover for dark cars, and either wax or glaze depending on the age of the paint (whether it's cured or not).


I do have two other recmomendation that would help people doing this for the first time. Do not let the wet-sanded clear coat dry in the cracks of your car - it is very difficult to get it out (especially bad on dark colored cars). Even high-pressure car washes wouldn't get it all out of the cracks in my car the first time.
Also, when wet sanding, adding a bit of mild hand soap or palmolive to the water will help the sandpaper glide across the surface more smoothly ... with less grab. This is particularly helpful when using the first grade of sand paper as it will prevent you from getting deep gouges (it ends up making the buffing easier in the end. The soap will also help you when it comes time to rinse the car off - the clear coat residue won't stick to the car as well.
Lastly, I would recommend doing this under a fluorescent light if possible. Fluorescent lighting is much less forgiving than sunshine ... so you will be sure to buff out every last "scrape" left by the wet sanding. Again, this is more important on dark cars where any remaining wet sanding marks will look like white scrapes in the clearcoat.
I do agree though ... this is definitely the way to the showroom shine. This is also how I made all my friends and relatives think that a $500 Maaco paint job on my last car was a $5000 show job. I had friends actually petting the paint because it was so smooth. :) Of course I had to kill them for putting finger prints on my car, but it's all good.

     
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