| Then run a drag radial or slick with more side wall, lower the tire pressure so there's more abortion from the initial shock of power transferred to the rear end. Next have an Auto transmission that has a built stall converter that can handle 4000rpm launches or go the cheaper route of a manual with a six puck disc and a high clamping pressure plate such as RPS and launch much higher at 6500 to 7k. A stiff suspension is key has well in taking on the cars lateral G-forces from front to back and the Z with it's squat suspension system stock will absorb most of that power. So by replacing the stock bushings with polyurethane wise the stock rubber ones will help a great deal in this. Replacing the sub frame bushings as well with Greg's or another type of spacer will force the rear tires to stay on the ground where you want to most pressure to be during this transfer. It's a very violate act taking place and all your components must be built to withstand this abuse. Things such as lighter one piece drive lines will also help in the transfer from tranny to rear. Heating tires efficiently is another point. Track condition and knowing the highest possible point of breaking traction is key. So heat them and heat them well. Because as you know, your trying to move some 3500+ pounds as quickly as possible driven by two tires. Auto's can build boost off the line, manuals take other tricks to do this. A Z06 has a redline of 6500rpm's and a fuel cut off of 6600. So you can beat these cars all the way down the track with a Stg V++++ Z running 18 to 19psi and concentration.
 STAGE V++++
Going to XV+ and beyond :) Yellow Z STAGE II
Going to XI+ |
