| It all comes down to what comprimises do you want to make. If your willing to give up the space and have the amplification power then go with the most you can get. There are too many variables to say what you should get. As far as the car handling the 12's, thats a joke. As long as you have space any sub will work in any car. the good thing about our cars is that the internal volume is small so you get good sub bass reinforcement due to the transfer function of the car. if you want to design it properly you need to measure the transfer function and then do a sweep so as to properly design the box to fit the particular T/S parameters of that particular sub. Don't trust box programs. they are just a rough idea. this is of course talking about having a sub that gives even response over the frequency range. Just a few tid bits: one 12inch sub = x db....two 12inch sub = x+3 db
100 watts going to one 12inch sub = x db.....200 watts going to one 12 inch sub = x = 3db
Hence, unless you are getting a good amount of power then adding that extra sub or doubling that power does not make much of a difference. these are theoretical values and not usually real world. if your into a good sounding system then design your box properly. Just putting it in the well might not be a good size for your particular sub. The perception of a sub being tight comes from your mid bass octaves. It does NOT come from the sub frequencies. the amount of distortion that we can tolerate in a sub is usually a lot greater than out other speakers because the design of the human ear does not easily resolve those frequencies. This is the reason in a properly designed system, without knowing, you could not locate the sub, unless matter tended to be resonating which let your hearing cue in on the area. If your goal is to just boom down the road then it will be an easy install. If your goal is for true high fidelity then a little more patience and skill will be required. hope this helps
Z is back and running!! What shall I say....... |
13:26:32 02/03/03
