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When you set the 'base' timing to 15^ at the CAS, you are essentially calibrating the ECU. For example, when you are in hard idle, the timing is 15^ ACTUAL AND you will see 15^ on a techtom. If you advance your CAS two degrees, you will still see 15^ on the techtom, but you ACTAULLY are running 17 degrees. When I say TOTAL timing, I mean ACTUAL timing. When I'm running 33 degrees of total timing, I mean it literally is firing the plug 33 degrees BTDC - The CAS is NOT set to 33 degrees as this would result in an ACTUAL timing of 51 degres (18 degrees additional static degrees plus the 33 in the map). I have my static timing set to 15 degrees and the map is 33 degrees, which makes it actually fire 33 degrees BTDC. Just think of it this way - when the static timing is set to 15 degrees, just think of the timing as being zeroed and whatever is in the map will be the actual timing used. I honestly can't tell you why I can pull so much timing - I haven't attempted to run that kind of timing with someone else's car so I can't say if mine is unique or not. I suspect that all of the combustion chamber work I did actually lowered the compression a little and really warded off detonation from not having any sharp edges. But I'm only speculating. I was also running 114 octane cam2 fuel.
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[ agpowers@bellsouth.net ] [ Zemulator Information Sheet ] When pigs dance, you better get it on video... "You never really learn to swear until you learn to drive."
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