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You by passed the thing that is need from the start of that 1/4 mile run. That clutch system. I really can't see another clutch holding such power and clamping force and make the job easier if it can be done at all. From a single disc set up out of the box. Me: Yeah, the RPS 6-Puck is a good overall setup that will take this kind of abuse Another thing is launch Rpm's. Where do you set the tach at when your leaving the line? I know a lot of this depends on track prep conditions etc. Me: I pretty much kick the r's up to about 6K and do a quick slip engagement, and when the engagement happen i'm stepping into the throttle, of course. When you goto launch the car, do you power brake the car to give it a load, yet not break traction any, but to load the turbo's will little boost from the line. Even thought this is slipping the clutch and is really bad for them, but that's racing. Me: No power braking, and not too much slipping. if I do ever get the RPS carbon carbon then I'll be doing that slipping thing to build boost. Manual burnout's? What's you techniques on this? Me: I just get in the waterbox dump the clutch and let the wheels start spinning, then step on the brake with my left foot. I can just sit there for as long as the starter will let me. Then I make sure to complete the burnout well outside of the waterbox to make sure there's no water on the tires. Stay with a stock Iron flywheel or Aluminum or doesn't matter. Looking for ones opinion here, because I feel that rasing Rpm's ( motor speed ) faster increases turbo's spool and power transfer, but it also drops Rpm's faster if one does not speed shift threw the gears and this kills synchros, but then again, that's racing. Me: I have the stock flywheel but I've also done good 60' times with a JUN fly as well Air temp to boost pressure? Running 19+psi in the summer time will hurt more than help as one would think. The transfer of heat on those small turbo's would more likely blow seals or something, just saying here ( talking out loud :) ). So something like this should be looked at in the fall and early spring. Me: I pretty much just don't run in high heat. I'll just go and watch. Tire pressure? Is low to low,,,,lol? You ran 13psi and some I know with the BFG DR's run 10, so must be that manufactures tire or is it how it looks on your car as far as to much squat as car sits in the staging lanes? For mine, I was down to 10psi on them and they did not look low very much at all, yet I didn't have the manual burnout technique down yet at the time. Me: I think I'm going to drop the tire pressure some more. I did have some wheel spin on my 1.7 60. So hopefully there's more in there. You just have to make sure that if you are running too low of pressure, you don't want to spin the tire on the rim. On my ET's he tire id bolted to the rim, so I run tubes inside the tire. That the setup to get. Spraying Intercoolers? Is this just a non practice by some or not needed or cared for by those with upgraded models? By manually changing the incoming charged air threw Intercoolers sprayed down with ice water piror to staging with allow the motor to place motor air in the cylinders, but I've also heard that running lean may be a factor here as well, when running high PSI's on parts that are already being pushed to the limit. Me: I don't do anything there. Fuels used. I posted about this three weeks ago or so asking about 105,110,112 or 114 on dyno's for Max results. From what Greg said, running a fuel closer to 100 octane is best and would have more benefits over higher leaded ones and to never mix fuels such as pump gas and race. Because of different burn rates and additives. Me: I don't want any leaded gas in the car and it run great on the 76 100 octane. Gotta love that sweet racegas smell. Plus gap? Is the temp rating the same on your NA #6 plugs wise one step cooler plugs for the twin model? Just shorter tips and what are yours gapped at? Me: Stock gap. didn't mess with any of that as well.
Mike
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