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One thing you gotta look passed is that it's a Honda. Because yes it is, but bottom line is not the emblem on the hood, but the power to weight ratio. Z's are tanks and need a lot of power to move a descent time. Where's Honda's don't claim a lot of power with there bolt on's, but they do with turbo's. So weight to ratio, he's going to pull on you. Your still looking for parts it seems. If you've got $1500 to play with on a meaningless race. Then why not set your car up with a solid strong Stg V++++ Z. Like mine and others. Where your not blowing the doors off everyone, yet your shocking the shit out of others. Before I make the big dive into the real power realm, I knew what parts to change out and go after to be fast and strong with keeping the stock injectors, intercoolers and turbo's. Drop the ClutchMaster crap clutches. Stick with what all the top racers have, RPS six puck. You need know other. Get a real full exhaust from turbo's back, gutted will work too, but directional flow causes delay. Colder plugs is a must as well to help keeps cylinder temps down, sense your going to be pushing OEM parts. Run 110 gas when you do push the car. BFG drag radials or Mickey Thompson ET slicks on stock rims is a must. Take lighter parts to replace certain OEM ones on your drive line system, such as Flywheel, drive line and maybe under drive pulley. Make sure you have an aftermarket Boost gauge. Learn to power brake the manual tranny to. Because un well heated tires are a major killer in most higher powered cars off the line and having a clutch system like RPS it grabs and holds, yet is very streetable with a spilt personality. Once heated and you've learned the track your on. Then you should be up in the 4500rpm range of launching. So you might be better of going a best out of 3 race. Because if you spin off the line, you are done. Sense you have stock intercoolers, do like I and many others do. Take a pressurized water sprayer with you. Filled with lots of Ice and water. Before each run, spray the intercoolers down to where they are very cold. You can find these bottles in home and garden sections in most department stores. When shifting in a manual, to not loose boost during each shift, leave your foot pressed down on the gas and speed shift threw the gears. This is harder than it sounds when your under pressure. Your natural habit is to lift that clutch foot and then shift, no matter how fast or normal you shift, just habit. So it takes concentration and practice and a lot of time and time again. Because while all that's going on, you've gotta watch your RPM tact. Some will say shift here and shift there. But for me, I take 1st to 2rd up to 5k rpm's, 3rd to 6k rpm's and 4th to the end. Because a Stg III Z with chip has a 7200 red line which is good for around 123mph which you will not see on stock turbo's, injectors in a 1/4 distance, so no need for 5th ever. The point is to ride into each gear gaining rpm's, not topping RPM's off and dropping RPM's per gear and loosing boost. Plus, take out crap that you don't need, such as seat, spare and other crap. Like others have said as well. Don't jump stages on a z like adding NOS without injector upgrade. You'll be melting pistons quick and the fun will be over before you can get the hang of this new found power. There's only so much one can ask of stock parts. More than most of us are still kicking ass and putting out very good power on parts dated 10 years old. I set up our Z clubs next Dyno day here in Nov 9th. Where I look to break the 400rwhp mark measured still using stock injectors, stock turbo's, stock intercoolers and stock timing. So think about what you have and have to loose here. You might be better off taking that money you could be giving away and making it pay off better in your ride when used right........... peace. :)
 STAGE V++++
Going to XIII and beyond :) |
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13:08:18 10/12/02
