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I really dont think there is anything wrong w/ running an alum driveshaft. If you drop the clutch at like 5 or 6 grand it will obviously put a lot of pressure on the shaft amongst other parts, enough to possibly break it if thats what decides to give first. Now, im my case, im really not sure why they are breaking. Someone brought up the idea of my driveline being out of wack. Im not sure thats it though. With the 300 degree subframe kit in the car, the subframe should have less of a chance of being thrown out of line since the bushings are solid alum, and they sit on posts, therefore alowing no for and aft movement of the subframe. Now, thats assuming that the 300 degree kit was made to such exact specs that the subframe sits right where it should, and i believe that all 300 degree parts are made to precise specs, so that rules out my subframe being out of line. It is possible that my tranny mounts are shot and that may contribute to the stress put on the shaft. Now, both of my shafts that i broke have been at the welds. First one broke at the tranny side and the second one broke at the diff side, again, both at the welds. This brings in another possibility, the welder is drunk when he builds my shafts :) Im no welder, so i cant make any judgments on the welds or how good of a welder they have over there at powertrain. ALso, running an auto should lessen the chance of breaking a driveshaft since it preloads the driveline (it does, doesnt it?) , so it takes away that snapping action when launching. For everyday use, i think they are a great mod, just not sure about drag racing w/ them yet.
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Chris
aim=ylwttz
1990 custom yellow stage X TT
--best 1/4 time= 12.6 @ 118
--438rwhp/461rwtq
1990 2+2 stage 4+ (sold)
"i'd rather be happy and poor than than have it all and still want more" -Big Wig
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