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Subject One more follow up for the record in the hopes this whole
     
Posted by moxie (SF) on December 16, 2019 at 1:42 PM
  This message has been viewed 426 times.
     
In Reply To The saga continues, but getting close *I think* posted by moxie (SF) on December 15, 2019 at 01:38 AM
     
Message series of events is helpful for somebody else in the future.

I managed to figure out why my CAS was cranked so far over. I mentioned that my timing light had an advance on it, I think it must have been advanced around 30 degrees, when I set it back to zero, I had to crank to CAS all the way to where it is for the timing gun to read 15 degrees TDC.

As I said, the car drove well, it pulled hard but I didn't have the snap I was expecting at high RPM's, hence my *I think* statement above. Yesterday afternoon I found myself on conceptzperformances wiki (great resource BTW) and read this article again, for the 15th time, but this time I really read it, and saw this statement.

Using the coilpack connector as an inductive pickup. Many timing lights have difficulty picking up a signal from the coilpack connector, as they're designed for high-tension wires. Many have experienced inaccurate readings from this method, and this author has seen a 10 degree discrepancy.

And then it hit me, I had been using my timing light on the grounded wire on the coilpack, so I made an inductive pickup extension and retried to time it, sure as shit, It was a full 10 degrees off (retarded).

I then reset the timing to 15 degrees TDC and took it for a drove (CAS is no longer at the extreme side anymore). What a huge difference! It pulls like I would have expected, pushes you into seat hard kinda pull all the way to redline. In fact, I'm going to lower the boost a bit, to make it a little less powerful.

To recap, first the car was advanced due to a combination of my timing gun being advanced and using the coilpack connector for the pickup. Those two in combination probably had me around 15 degrees advanced (hence all the detonation I was getting and shitty performance), then it was retarded by 10 degrees due to the timing light advance being zero'd out, but still using the coilpack to time the car.

So now that I'm not as worried about the fluttering timing at idle, I think I can put this whole thing to rest.

tl;dr: Use an inductive pickup to set your timing and make sure if your timing light has a way to adjust the advance, that it's set to 0.


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