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knock-back. Stock rotors and calipers in the rear. Not sure why its happening. Pad knock-back issues are more typical on solid rear axle vehicles, not Z's. Anybody else out there with similar issues under hard track use? I currently use Hawk DTC70's in the front and HT-10's in the rear. This condition has startled me on a few occasions this year at Road America Raceway. When you are going 145+ and have to pump the brakes so you don't end up in the wall does not give me warm fuzzes and loads of confidence under those conditions. My new habit is always pump the brakes ever so slightly, then they work every time consistently. I shouldn't really have to do that in my opinion. I can recreate a pad knock-back condition on the street by quickly steering left to right about 5-10 times quickly (similar to race vehicles trying to warm up tires). Pedal height drops an additional 25-50% for the first pump then brakes feel normal from that point forward. FYI, Brakes are bled before every race and after each day I race at the track in preparation for next days events. ATE Type 200 Dot4 fluid with a 536 Degree F boiling point which should be sufficient. Just had the Z aligned, all the wheel bearings and suspension joints seem tight, no movement. Urethane subframe bushings, rear diff, sway bars, steering rack, SPL 4 wheel steering kit delete, Adjustable front and rear upper control arms. Basically the only stock suspension piece on the car are the front lower control arms and a couple of rubber bushings on the rear spindle that are a PITA to replace.
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10:49:41 09/02/15
