Powder coating is much more durable than liquid paint (when done properly). However, in order to do a good job of it by thoroughly media-blasting the wheels first at a minimum, it's quite a bit more costly than liquid-painting the wheels. If you scuff the finish, it can be costly to repair since you cannot "touch-up" powder coat with more powder coating; you must strip it all down to the bare surface material and re-do it. Not sure how much they charge in your area to mediablast, but I got sticker shock when I called around in my area (so I bought my own blast cabinet and powder coating kit) There are limitless color choices for powder coating; however, the "chrome" color is not nearly as good as real chrome (IMO). That's not to say you can't produce a stunning metallic or reflective silver powder coat finish. Check out Prismatic Powders for color options. One more thing to keep in mind is that you can use a clear powder coat for more durability; however, this sometimes changes the color/finish of the part itself depending on the color it is covering. I've seen it "yellow" whites and cause a glossy finish to become matte. So do plenty of research if you're going to go that route. Wouldn't be a bad idea to do a sample on a different part just to see how the color would turn out first. P.S. deer suck.
________________Sig Separator________________________ ATTN: Zuberman The above message is not sponsored by my employer. Selling used ACT full-face sprung clutch kit: $300 + shipping ConUS!Chrome "boost" hardpipes and couplers/clamps $100 + shipping Twin Turbo aluminum front calipers: $200 + shipping. Needs paint or will paint red for additional $50 Parting out my entire 1990 twin turbo! Please email me for needed parts! See profile for my WTB/WTT list as well. |