| For current and prospective owners.... Given the more flexible chassis, there are a couple of setup things that you may want to do a little differently than with the coupe: Wheels - the lighter is better. This should be your number one priorty IMO. I cannot stress / repeat this often enough. Dropping unsprung weight on the vert makes a huge difference relative to similar changes on the coupe. The vert does not carry heavy stylish wheels very well at all. Dropping weight = dramatically better handling, noticeably less shake up front when the suspension is working hard (ie. spirited driving or uneven surfaces). (if you want to test this - throw your stockers back on and go for a rip) Coilovers - I went from stock, through KYB/AGX Eibach to Powertrix Coilovers. The Powertrix coils are perfect on the Vert, although I find the identical coilovers a little harsh on my Slicktop. Both ride and car handling are dramatically better on the coilovers. Perhaps the stiffer suspension counters the flexier chassis. Camber - I run a little more camber on the vert than on my slicktop. About 2.5 up front and about 1.5 rear. Strut bracing - makes life worse. Mike Smith (z32ttvert) played around with this years ago and concluded that bracing the front and back independently made flex and cowl shake worse. I agree completely. Subframe spacers: I run them. Again on the theme that tightening up the suspension dials out some of the flex and adds precision, predictability. Tension rods: change them early. Wearing or worn tension rods obviously make it all worse. Fender bracing: I don't use them personally but I can see why they might help, especially as age/miles creep up. I hope this helps someone spend their money wisely :-)
 ConVerTT - 93 Hi Compression TT Convertible (black)
XtraVerTT - 93 Hi Compression TT Convertible (glacier white)
SlickTTop - 96 OBD1 TT Slicktop (black)
Old Yeller - 90 Slicktop NA (PGY) And their hot Asian Cousin - 01 Acura NSX NA |
