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1. Mileage/date timing belt has last been replaced. I generally wouldn't take someone's word for it unless they have a receipt as proof. If they can't give you a concrete answer, it needs to be replaced ASAP - $600 for parts alone (120k kit).
2. Do a compression/leakdown test. No exceptions.
3. Condition of turbos. Since an engine pull is required to replace (some have done it with engine in but not recommended), it's important to make sure they're in good shape. IE: no leaks, no severe smoke, makes good boost, etc.
4. Miscellaneous leaks. Commonly the high psi power steering hose. Oil pan is a good one to check too since a front end drop or engine removal is required to fix that.
5. Check ECU diagnostics. Very easy/quick to do as long as you have a screwdriver to remove the floorboard.
6. If "mustache", sideview mirrors, or body accent lines aren't a greyish black, it's been repainted. Be extra cognizant of accident history and bodywork quality. Also check 3rd brake light for cracks or fading - this is an expensive piece and very fragile so hard to replace correctly.
7. Transmission isn't difficult to remove but unless you have the tools/time/space, it can be expensive. Make sure the clutch is good and verify with receipt if seller claims to have recently replaced it. If no receipt, you can take it to a shop and remove the starter to at least get a glimpse of the pressure plate to determine if it's aftermarket. Make sure it doesn't grind - syncros go out in these transmissions.
8. A/C is a b*tch in these cars if something goes wrong. Make sure that works.
9. Check coolant condition. If rusty/excessively dirty, it could lead to clogged coolant galleys in the block or a bad/leaking heater core (located underneath the dash).
10. Common to find janky wiring in these cars for some reason. Easy to peak under the passenger floorboard to ECU and behind radio to see. If wiring is hacked up, could cause numerous possibly expensive headaches down the road.
11. Bushings are all likely shot. Subframe bushings are cheap themselves but many have said they'd rather buy a new rear subframe from Nissan rather than endure the extensive labor involved with changing the subframe bushings again.
12. T-top leaks. You can spend a small fortune just trying to fix this with new parts. Aside from obvious cosmetics like rust and title history, there are lots of other little things you could check but the above are the main expensive things to look for. Almost anything else can be fixed fairly easily. Finding the right Z will likely take lots of time unless you can pony up the money for a low mileage one. Good luck.
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Parting out my entire 1990 twin turbo! Please email me for needed parts!
See profile for my WTB/WTT list as well.
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14:28:55 10/28/13
