| Hello all, this is for a fun build in south Texas. I had a fairly long discussion Greg a few days ago and I really appreciate the info. My build idea is always changing as I hear different information. According to your Greg's info about harmonic vibrations with the factory crank, it would be unwise for me to rev to 7400RPM or higher, as I would start destroying the main and rod bearings. With that said, what do you think of my new *reliable* build plan? Stock block acid cleaned/magnaflux checked, bores checked/re-honed, deck checked for flatness Ramey Idler Bearing Studs Stock crank counterweight welded, crank balanced, magnaflux checked Stock main bearings/stock crank girdle (or what do y'all recommend?) with L19 Studs Ati Race Damper crank pulley Specialty Z 6qt Oil pan Stock head with JWT500 cams/new OEM hydraulic lifters (what are the intake cam adapters? Do I need them with BDE pulleys?), HD valve springs, BDE VTC intake and BDE Exhaust pulleys. Will the 500 cams still work with VTC? Stock head bolts??? Stock Head gasket??? My machine shop said they can get the roughness average low enough to use Cometic MLS gaskets. What do y'all think? Carrillo rods or Crower.... I remember hearing that the Crower rods needed a custom crank... What hardware? What do you guys think? CP pistons with better wrist pins or... the Ross setup. Are they the same/better? Do y'all recommend stock timing belt or is there stronger aftermarket?
That would cover the motor build as far as I know, not counting misc stuff like oil pump, gaskets, etc. What are your thoughts on these parts? Would this be safe for 1000whp assuming perfect tune and the right turbo/fueling setup?
I plan on running your modified gt3076 kit with BDE top feeds 2200cc injectors and twin Walboro E85 pumps (480s?)
Sorry for the long post, I just like to know I am doing it right the first time when I spend this kind of money. I hope you understand! Anything you think is stupid or you suggest I change, please let me know!
Thank you! :)
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