Here's some more test videos to compare the internal mic vs. external mic.
When I say "external" it is a $2 ebay flexible microphone, which, after a little research shows that this seems to be the best fit for the Hero2 because it doesn't have the "crickets" noise in the background. What causes this is the Hero2 will automatically control the gain, and it turns the gain all the way up. For whatever reason, with this $2 mic, it won't do that and you get great quality MONO sound. Yes, the Hero2 has a non-stereo microphone input.
I have tried splitting the external signal, but to no avail. When I tried to have one mic in the engine bay, and one inside the hatch, neither worked then.
So without further ado, check out the following:
External mic only, in the engine bay, and camera mounted on front windshield in "upside down" mode (camera is physically upside down, but final video is in the correct orientation). Ignore the CEL flashing...nothing is wrong. (VG30 = 1 knock sensor, RB26 = 2 knock sensors... correct voltage to PowerFC, but voltage to dash is different... dunno).
Internal mic versus external mic all in one video... it is quite a difference. (It's in my 2002 Honda Civic beater...but listen to the road noise and to my voice)
...and now internal mic only, mounted on driver side window inside. T-tops on.
I'll sum it up with this: If you're after good audio AND video, then use an external mic INSIDE the car. Audio outside the car is an entirely different animal. The case "says" the "skeleton case" (case with holes in it, non-waterproof) is good up to 100mph, but in actuality it's good to about 30-40mph and after that all you hear is wind noise. The waterproof case is better for high speeds, but your audio quality goes out the window.
BEst scenario I've found for external (outside of the car) use is to drill a hole in the side of the plastic case to access the external microphone, run a 3'+ audio cable inside the car, and put the microphone under your seat or in a place not exposed to wind.
Hope this helps. I've spent a lot of time experimenting with this.
I would also HIGHLY recommend the $80 LCD screen. It drains your battery faster, but you can pick up two extra batteries on ebay for like $20-30 and keep them with you. YEs, the batteries are user-replaceable now.
Z's: 1990 TTZ RB26DETT now running! 636 RWHP/504 FT/lb @24psi @ 200' ALT Nov. 2011 (retuned from original Dyno) 505 RWHP/483 FT/lb @18psi @ 380' ALT Oct. 2008 457 RWHP/441 FT/lb @18psi @ 5800' ALT Nov. 2007 436 RWHP/433 FT/lb @17psi @ 5300' ALT June 2006
