 |
   |
|
| |
|
|
| Subject |
13.5V@idle seems close to normal, depending... |
|
| |
|
|
| Posted by |
escturbo on November 30, 2011 at 8:22 PM |
|
| |
This message has been viewed 219 times. |
|
| |
|
|
| In Reply To |
Follow up - battery and PTU posted by dTb on November 29, 2011 at 10:48 PM |
|
| |
|
|
| Message |
I've always been keen on tracking the electrical system's voltage output on the Turbo Z, and my Greddy Full Auto turbo timer will read ~14.0V@idle, w/ stock crank pulley. Ultimately, the only problem you may have had was a Red Top that was not holding a charge from the stock alternator. You don't really know for sure that there was any drain coming from the coolant temp ground or the PTU. Since your crank is under driven, the stock alternator obviously will not spin fast enough to put out factory Amp. & Volt. specs. @ idle. With just the headlights/fogs&radio running, my system voltage will read 13.8V@idle. With ALL accessories running, it drops below 13V. The FSM shows less than 1/3 amp. output@idle speed, so my concern would be sufficient output at higher rpms to keep the battery charged. Like Woody said, 13.5V@idle seems normal. Replacing the alternator, or rather rebuilding it would be a good preventative step if it's been soaked with PS fluid or is older than 100k. Mine is original w. 82k & going strong. Someone needs to build an over driving alternator pulley, if only for peace of mind's sake, since output @idle is trivial compared to output at higher rpm ranges. I agree with Woody, forget the Optima's; just get a standard Power Frame battery from Advanced Auto.
P.S. A friend's mysterious power drain was eventually traced down to a simple bent hood sensor bracket, not allowing it to be engaged. A simple yank up on the bracket, to allow engagement, fixed it.
|
|
| |
|
|
| Follow Ups |
|
|
| |
|
|
Post a
Followup |
You cannot reply to this message because you are not logged in.
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
|
|
|
