:Instead of assuming what may be causing the issue, I would like to know a few things about your set-up.
:Is the flywheel new? If not, was it rebuilt before installing the new clutch? The flywheel is the same segmented RPS I used with my Max Street, however, I had replacement pucks installed and the clutch was re-balanced with the full rotating assembly together (clutch + flyhwheel + crankshaft + crank pulley) :That style flywheel is known to have many high and low spots/unevenness of the surface (even new) Feramic is a very high tq friction material, Any rubbing of the disk on a uneven surface will cause the disk to try and grab and spin the input shaft causing release issues. ...which means it is extra important for it to fully release. :The FE full face can cause some shudder in certain cars, It depends on the amount of lash in the drivetrain among other things. Using a High TQ friction material will cause the drivetrain to load and unload on the sprung hub of the clutch as the disk tries to grab during engagement much like a puck does.
:If you take out the sprung hub, Aggressive high TQ materials (ceramic/Feramic) will actually drive smoother yet be harder on the transmission as there is no cushion between the crank and trans gears.
An organic lined clutch (your old RPS) will not grab on to these imperfections nearly as much as it will slip on them rather than trying to grab them under partial engagement (taking off from a stop)
:Give it some time to break in and smooth out the high/low spots and it should get much better although it is a very aggressive clutch.
:The X series pressure plate you have has a very good release, Better than anything else I have seen on the market. It also has the lowest bearing load (what pressure it takes to release the clutch) of most other plates at any given clamp load. The clutch has only done about 300 easy kilometers so far so still bedding in. I suspect it may get better after a while. :Did your vendor ask you what you were looking for out of a clutch? I only recommend this kit for people that need to hold very high HP for street apps and want the longest wear possible out of a clutch, drive-ability being 2nd.
:You have went from a clutch that will hold around 500 wheel TQ to a kit that will hold well over 900 RWTQ. Well my engine is developing 500+ rwhp and the Max Street used to slip a little on flat shifts from second to third under 22+ psi boost - also after about 20,000 km it kind of really needed replacing, so I wanted to make sure I had something that would last and hold the power. :The HD cast iron clutch fork will offer more release of the clutch even with stock clamping loads. It is something I always recommend even with a stock replacement kit and a must have with anything over stock. Knowing how much the stock fork flexes at stock levels, I would never use it in my car and take the risk of wearing out the syncros in the trans as this has been an issue in these cars for a long time. I think the cast iron fork sounds like a good plan.... :Out of curiosity, why did you change the clutch and what kind of RWHP are you making? I only changed because the car got stolen and totaled and the Max Street was shot when I went to transplant that motor in to my new Z.
:
:
:
:
:
:
|
