| When using a free flowing exhaust... the vacuum from the exhaust "pulls" on those type of seals and cause oil to leak past it. Any particular reason you went with the sport 500's? There are quite a bit of turbo replacement choices that alllow basically the same lag (which is pretty much non-existant with those turbos when used with dp's,tp's, etc Those turbos use old technology.. if it was lag you were concerned about, the sport 530's or Z1 600r kit are good choices. However; I will tell you from personal experience that those turbos will "get old" quick as in terms of getting used to the power. I previously modified a pair of stock GT28R turbos and did all the necessary things to make it "bolt on" to our engines. It wasn't THAT bad but now Z1 offers that kit.. You can't really get any easier than that. I do however have a different compressor inlet setup than most TT's which attributed to even less lag. On the street, I can safely say there was "no lag"... They spooled up just as fast as stock (I mean, on a dyno I am sure you could see the difference in spool up, but on the street.. its difficult to notice a few hundred RPM in spool time and much more power than stock turbos offered. In addition to the benifit that the upgraded turbos with bigger housings had less stress to put down the same amount of boost/power. The Sport 500's use stock compressor housings with just a little bit bigger wheels. There are just so many better options nowadays than the Sport 500's. Don't get me wrong, I am not bashing sport 500's in any way. I recently noticed a guy in classifieds selling the "adapter kit", which included the actuator brackets (which is probably the most time consuming part of the whole project of modifying the turbos to bolt on. Z1 600r, JWT 530s, GT28R turbos all (pretty much the same except the 530's have a little smaller compressor specs but not much difference in power/lag) offer very quick spool up, less heat generated than stock or sport 500's and also have a dynamic seal and a 360^ thrust bearings. The 530's, 600r, gt28R etc all benifit and are more reliable and keep the turbos spinning easier since they all also used dual ball bearing center sections instead of bronze journal bearings. Ball bearing turbos have a very high efficiency rating when spooling around 70k-80k RPM.. since they are ball bearing they "stay spooled" much easier than journal type bearings. Your options... You can get another center section to replace the turbos you have. OR (my personal recommendation is to replace those turbos with the 530's, 600r, or buy the GT28R and modify them yourself to save some money. However; My favorite all around "street turbo" recommendation would be the GT28RS, JWT 700, Z1 675R.. but its also recommended to have aftermarket manifolds to spool them quicker. I would not advise getting anything other than the .64 a/r exhaust turbine housing option for any of the larger turbos that I listed. It is also advised to have atleast forged pistons when going with the larger even though it is not absolutely needed as long as you have a good tune, keep an eye on EGT's, and a dual wideband setup (one for each bank) would be helpful as well.
NO, This picture is not photoshopped. It took many times to take this picture. Setting up the timer, shutter speed etc, then jumping on my bike and getting the tire to spin.
AIM:Shawn300zxTT "-Any closeups on the nuts? - zboost(tx) 19:17:53 08/08/05
-Not really something you want to ask another man about... (n/m) - LordZ 19:24:00 08/08/05" "I just took 45 min and scrubbed the heck out of my rear"
teambushido(San Diego, CA) 19:24:51 12/11/04 -1991 Stage _ TT 5spd (Upgraded to hell and back)
-1990 Super White 2+2 Na Stage 3 Auto (Daily Driver, contemplating selling.. )
-1990 Cherry Red Pearl ,Auto Coupe (Parts car)
-1990 11 Sec Eagle Talon Tsi AWD, (SOLD!)
-1996 Hyundai Sonata (Given to me for FREE , due to broken timing belt,bent valves.. fixed it myself and its my new DD that gets over 25 mpg!
-2004 Honda CBR 600RR (Candy blue, FOR SALE) |
