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This is a bit off topic of the best "rod" for 1000+HP but it all comes together because to make that power will require viewing the engine as an entire package with all the components chosen to achieve that power goal. My recommendation of choosing better rod bolts for higher RPM reliability is based upon being realistic, not assumption, so follow along: First, since HP is a function of TQ and RPM, any engine will need to make 750 ft-lbs TQ @ 7000 RPM to make that magic 1000HP. Lower that RPM to 6000, and the engine needs to make 875 ft-lbs TQ to achieve 1000HP. Now, it seems pretty obvious that making 1000HP gets progressively more difficult as the target RPM is lowered. Not to mention, the BMEP needed to achieve the TQ levels at lower RPMs will eventually tax the octane capability of the fuel, increasing the potential for detonation. Next, air flow - to make 1000HP any engine will need to consume a substantial amount of air and fuel. Let's keep the A/F ratio at a safe 12:1 where we can then calculate the BSFC to be 0.61 and the airflow to be 1600 SCFM. If you want to cram 1600 SCFM through the 3.0L VG at 6000 RPM, you will need a manifold pressure of approximately 57psi, at 7000RPM 47psi, however, at 8000 RPM the manifold pressure is closer to 39psi... now it's getting a little more realistic, and a little more achievable. This is within the range of two GT3076R turbos. Call it whatever you want, but I don't make assumptions. I live in the real world where taking the time to know what you're up against and picking the appropriate parts to do the job will save time, effort and money.
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