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the idea is that performing this process will in effect burnish the sharp edges from all the loaded surfaces, e.g. threads, washer, bottom of nut, and reduce the friction so that the final torque will apply the maximum load to each stud which translates into more preload holding the head to the block and copressing the gasket. Following ARP's recommended torque level with the proper lubricant applied is of utmost importance here. It sounds like your block has seen better days if you are pulling threads. If you plan to heli-coil the block using a hand drill and hand tap, it is highly unlikely you will be able to get it drilled and tapped perpendicular to the deck surface, and this is absolutely necessary. I highly recommend paying a machine shop to install the heli-coil(s) properly.
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