In response to yall wanting to know where I put stuff, here is some of it..I'm sure not all, but just what is on the top of my head.
The wastegate hoses were all run hidden and underneath the main boost hoses to keep them hidden. Basically, all wires that run from the back of the engine to the front can instead of being on top of the boost hoses, can either be run through the fenders if length is not an issue, or just run under the boost hoses out of sight if length is an issue.The main large fuse box is not too hard to relocate to under the driver's side headlight. If you have your engine removed you will see how to do this, and only 21 wires will have to be extended about 2 feet in length. Just use a solder to extend the wires, and take your time with it, and it's not too hard. The clutch booster vacuum tank can be easily relocated to the driver's side fender well where the AIV crap use to be if you removed it as I have. The bracket will need to be modifide a little, but not much. The small fuse box that is on the passenger side can very easily be relocated on the passenger side fender well where the AIV crap use to be on that side. Remove egr, prvr, aiv and tanks, battery and tray and the stock alarm horn, cruise control ect...also do waterline bypass. Removing HICAS is pretty strait forward. Basically, just buy the NA parts and swap them in and take out all those silly lines that run underneath the car. I do not have any windsheild wipers on my car..I don't drive in the rain, so I kept the motor hooked up in the car incase I ever need to put it back on for inspection and stuff, but just kept the wire that runs along the back of the motor inside and underneath the windsheild cowls hidden and not hooked up. On the driver's side by the master cylinders, there is the WS relay and the stock boost controller box. Both of these can be removed along with ALL of the wiring there except for the one wire that runs to the brake master cylinder. The upper bleeder point for the clutch can be easily removed as well since it is only there for "vibrations" in the clutch pedal. Just remove it and the 3 point T that it is connected to and replace with a union. Search posts about removing the upper clutch bleeder line to find out the part number of the union. It can be bought at NAPA for cheap ($5). I'm sure there is more stuff I did, but I honestly do not remember it all. Honestly, if your motor is out of the way and you take your time, you can find a TON of stuff to remove, relocate, and simplify pretty easily. Thanks for looking.
Thanks,
Mike
1991 Black Twin Turbo NZR cause Zs aren't super cars, but still a cool quote..."I think supercars are truely worth it if you can afford it. They inspire us to dream, and to achieve our dreams and be happy."
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