| just for my slicktop project....besides what else do you do when it's 4 degrees tonight and a high of 17 tomorrow. 
Everything with the Z32TT comes with trade-offs: performance vs. reliability...and money, cornering vs. ride comfort....etc. Concerning manifold design things are no different. The stock manifolds "fit" remarkably well...even with upgraded turbos, yet don't deliver on performance. The challenge has always been to find enough "space" in what is a very crowded engine bay to fit a larger, better-flowing manifold and still clear the steering shaft. If that weren't great enough feat, now try to fit larger (3 inch) downpipes that are straighter and clear the cowl.....and larger (3 inch), and straighter compressor inlet pipes that clear motor mounts.
This is all accomplished by putting a 12 degree tilt (15 degrees max allowed w/ BB CHRA) from horizontal on the turbochargers. An added benefit is better gating and port separation between rear cylinder. Next week my RS's with the TO4B compressor housings should arrive from Supra Killin' Antonio (Kong's idea)...to make sure they still fit. Despite rebuilding cars, boats, and remodeling houses for much of my life....I'm still learning a few things. I think the TT community has accepted pretty good, but just mediocre performance by today's standards by being locked into a small, 2 1/2" exhaust system and still using the outmoded 3 bolt flange location.
Now as many others are moving to a 3" exhaust, the next impediment to performance is the intake. If you've ever seen the wimpy intake piping that delivers air to your turbos...the "lungs" of our forced-induction cars, it's amazing the car produces the power it does. Imagine doubling these 2" (3 sq. in.) pipes to 3" (7 sq. in.) and making them a whole lot straighter.
The slicktop is getting all this and a little more.. The 3" inlet pipes will get connected to cone filters in front of the compressors.
I'll chuck the AC compressor, and move the alternator there then lower the PS pump. The radiators will get moved to the back, fed thru wide body ducts behind the doors like a Porsche Carrera GT.
The engine water I/O pipes will get moved to the rear of the engine and exit toward the battery. Intercoolers will be fed thru "underground" plumbing and enter from the bottom to be vertically stacked and exit straight into the the TB's.
To keep addition heat out of the engine bay, the hood will be vented thru a duct shroud created underneath.
Existing fascia ducts will serve to cool the brake rotors.
If I can find some 17x12" wheel "hoops", my first choice is to lathe-cut the centers out of the stock wheels an refit them with a "stock" look, but large enough to handle upgraded rotors. I also want to do an LCD "virtual" dash. So far I'm finding hardware hard to come by....or verrrrry pricey. I have found some cheap ($139) RV 3.5" LCD dashboard monitors to use with fender-mounted "mirrors"....since I never got any real ones w/ my $800 slicktop. Since I do all my own engine rebulding, exhuast and intake fabbing, as well as sheet metal and painting....I'm going to try to set a new record for bragging rights to see how cheap I can put this car together. Lambo yellow anyone? Winter is too long in Minnesota. Stay tuned for the latest progress report.
Thanks for you interest,
Jon Abeler, Abeler Automotive Engineering (AAE)
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Latest exhaust manifold concept from AAE..... - 
