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So today I decided to tackle the rear wheel bearing project. Everything went pretty smoothly, the only thing I had a little trouble with was the 1 1/16" nut on the rear of the spindle that holds the drum brake pin, but an impact gun made short work of that. I might do a write up if there's interest, but following the FSM was cake, no surprises whatsoever. Very straightforward. The right side bearing was totally trashed, it was the one making a substantial portion of the noise. When I had the hub and bearing off the car, I could turn it by hand and feel grinding, and it made a growling noise. Very bad, i shouldn't have let it get this far. I also replaced the hub grease seals, just for the sake of it. They were a little torn up, so it was a good call. Left side wasn't too bad, but definitely benfitted from the swap. I also put on a new set of rear tires. The guys at the auto hobby shop gave me a little shit over using the machine for low profile tires (stock size), so I let them do them. Ended up they put one of the tires on backwards. I also had to show them a trick on how to mount low profile tires. After that, they let me have free reign. Anyway, the car feels amazing now. The noise and vibration had snuck up slowly, but it was to the point where the car felt dangerous to drive above 50 mph. Very loud, and a vibration that felt like the rear end of the car was going to fall out. Also, the drag from the dying wheel bearings was slowing the car down a bit (i didn't think this was possible, but the car is definitely faster now, and easily breaks the wheels loose in second at 14 psi). I got to playing around with the AVC-R afterwards. I really can't believe that I haven't seen more discussion of the self-learning feature of this boost controller. I've seen posts where people say to set the duty and see what boost that gives you and adjust the duty so that you get the boost that you want. This is not correct. I think that the translation of the manual is to blame. This should only be a *starting* point. Getting the AVC-R into self-learning mode puts the duty control in the hands of the avc-r. Making continued WOT runs lets the AVC-R adjust the duty cycle for your car. It adjusts the duty cycle for your target boost every 500 rpm and it anticipates spikes, adjusting the duty accordingly. For example, i set the boost at 1 bar (14.2 psi), which for my car is 32-33% duty cycle. (my native boost is 12.5psi). After a few runs, the avc-r had eliminated spiking and flattened out the boost curve by upping the duty cycle to 35% from 3000-4500rpm (if i remember correctly, something along those lines), without any input from me. Very cool. I'm going to play with it some more tomorrow, but i'm very much looking forward to what else it can do. Enough rambling :-)
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Joe
Engine Rebuild in Progress: Sport 530bb's + Inconel :-)
AIM: hoyatiger81
"No, let's listen to you with your $600 blow off valvers [sic] that do nothing for your performance, but make a nice loud sneezing sound. That's smart! PS - Stage III does require an ECU upgrade MORAN...You probably never even got you hands dirty working on a car. Take care toolbox!" --djtz1
he sure got my number ;-)
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