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just to start things out in regards to track... (don't mean to slam tt.net folks) look where your asking the question. 98% of the people here have never been to a race track. Most of the answers on brakes that you get from people will only be from mountain carvers. If all your going to use them for is mountain carving, then that's fine. Track driving is a whoooole nother story. If you want to know how to ride a bicycle, you ask people who ride bicycles. Not those who just watch it on TV, or ride skateboards. In regards to preparation for the track.. - make sure your cars running good. (60k,120k,etc) - make sure you have a fresh set of pads for the front. No EBC shit, or metal matrix shit. Use what racers cars use, not what high horsepower garage queens use. Porterfields, Hawks, PFCs. Get an intermediate street/track pad. - add Redline Water Wetter to the cooling system. - if you have time to SST brake lines, do it. - if you have time, change your brake fluid to a higher temp fluid. Motul 600 for example. - if you have the time, buy the book "Going Faster", by Skip Barber and read it. ** after parking your car, after a run, don't use your e-brake, and let the car idle for about 10 minutes. That's it. - Focus more on technique, driving, and the line, rather than focusing on the car. It's a very common beginner mistake. After you've got a number of events under your belt, you'll understand what I'm talking about. All the Club Z track junkies will back me up on this too. On brakes for the track... If you got money to piss away, go with the 6-piston AP. You'll "think" your really using them to the limit, but they are such good brakes, that you won't really have the skill to use them to their limit untill after at least 4-6+ events. You'll probably disagree with me, but you'll understand after you've got a number of events under your belt. The 6-pistons are like a 600rwhp car. You'll never really use it to it's full extent on the street, and if you don't have the driving skill, you won't for a while on the track either. Trust me. I'm not talking out of my ass from what I read on tt.net, but from experience over the years.
If you don't have the money to piss away, a set of Hawk Blue pads, or Porterfield R4 pads will do you good enough. Even with a stock braking system, and those pads, you'll brake as good as the Brembos/APs, or better! Plus, you won't fade them either. These pads are $140+ /pair. Just like the Brembo/APs, you won't be using these pads to their extent for a while. What i mean by this is, braking as hard as you can, but having the timing down so that it is just the right amount that you don't over slow the car, and can also trail brake the car into the turn. Not as easy as it sounds. Wilwood calipers are the "cheaper" calipers. Something to note, that they don't mention. Wilwood calipers don't have dust boots! If you don't do some regular serious cleaning and regular rebuilding, your going to run into problems. Good luck, and have fun!
oh ya, a few more things. I noticed that you have a boost controller. Make sure you don't run more than 12-15psi.. depending on the weather. I know Austin weather and Texas weather. HOT!! Thunderhill days during the summer can be 110F. Without an upgraded radiator in hot weather, and Stage III, you WILL OVERHEAT. Especially so if your running 50/50. Bringing down the boost, and adding 110 octane will help. Most likely you'll have no overheating problems, or just intermediate temp increases because you won't be pushing the car all that much your first 2-4 times out. Either way, keep a CLOSE eye on your temp gauge, and pay attention to detonation. It'll be hard when your caught up in the moment of driving fast around the track. I know of 2 cars, personally, that have blown their engines because of lack of cooling and then detonation. I run a Euro radiator and 19 row Earls oil cooler, 95% water, and i still run into slight cooling issues.
Lee Darzycki Red '93 300ZX TwinTurbo ClubZ-Track Event Organizer
 www.ClubZ.org San Francisco Bay Area 300ZX Club
 >>> ClubZ Track Division <<<
  
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