| I figured while I was color sanding my car after my new paint applied this summer I would shoot a few pics of the process and how I do it. I did a little write up using my nose panel because I could do it off the car and easier to take pics of this way. This is my first right up so be kind im a virgin at it! Items used..
 High speed buffer
3 different foam buffing pads.
Yellow is the fast cut pad
Blue is what I use for my medium polish pad (2nd step)
This I use the black waffle type pad for the final glaze/swirl remover step.
Some different compounds and polishes.
1500/2000 grit wet sandpaper.
Firm backer pad for the sandpaper.
Rubber squeegee ( I use a new wiper blade because I can wipe a large area all at once)
100% cotton terry towels.
Luke warm water with a drop or 2 of dish soap ( helps the sandpaper glide)
Sponge.
You want to soak your sandpaper a few hours before hand in some lukewarm water to let it soften up. You dont want any hard area in the paper or it will just cause you more work later. First a few pics of the before.
First you need to clean the area to get any dirt,grit ect. off the area to be color sanded. Any paritcals between your paper and the paint will gouge the paint.
The I go over the area usually 2x2 foot area at a time with 1500 grit and the hard backer pad. This takes all the big imperfections out of the clear. Then wipe the area with the squeegee and see if I have removed all the imperfections. You want to keep the sandpaper wet at all times and the area you are sanding wet the enitre time. I like to use a sponge and slowly squeeze it as I am sanding letting the water run over the area I am sanding. Wipe the area with a squeegee and see what it looks like.
After you wipe it you can shiney spots where you didn't sand enough as they will show up still shiney. Notice the part near the edge that has shiney spots. (Thats orange peel Dahm painter)
You want the enitre surface to have a dull look to it like this
Then after I have no more imperfections I go over it again with 2000 grit to remove the 1500 grit scratches.
Then onto the buffer.
I start with 3m Perfect it II fine cut and the yellow coarse cut foam pad. After buffing the area to remove all of the 2000 grit sanding scratches you panel will have a somewhat shiney look to it but you will have a haze and some swirls.
Clean the area with a towel to make sure you have removed all of the scratches left by the 2000 sanding. It should resemble something like this. Ya nice facial shot ehh:) 
After this step I go over the area with Perfect-It III for a finer buff with my fine-cut blue foam pad. You should have a pretty shiney surface at this point.
After I am happy with the last compounding step I go over the area with the machine glaze and black super soft foam waffle pad.
Then a final coat of yellow carnuba to finish it off. And then you have the finished piece.
Only 5 more panels to do:(
You can buy these supplies at any paint store/body shop supply house.
My car has much clear on it (3 coats) so I have plenty to sand on and dont have to really worry about breaking thru it to the base coat.
If you are doing this to old aged paint you want to be very carefull that all you sand is the clear. Tape off any edges with masking tape, Edges are the high point and will sand quicker than the flat surface so be very cautious around them and any high points/humps in the body panel.
Depending on your paint you can start with the 2000 grit and buff from there. Take your time and do a small area at a time till you get the hang of it. Or go to a bodyshop and see if you can have a old painted body panel to experiment with till you get the hang of it. Once you figure it out its not all that hard but is time consuming and back breaking work but the results are very pleasant when done correctly.
 |
Color sanding and buffing - 
