| First, as always, consult the factory service manual. Changing the ring and pinion is essentially the same as an R&R of the stock ring and pinion, but it is complicated by the need to check and adjust pinion depth and backlash Since you have to remove the pinion bearings, you might as well replace them. This allows you to do the following: One of the issues with any gear change is getting the correct pinion depth. This is set by shims placed on the pinion shaft between the rear bearing and the pinion head. The only way to do this is trial and error. Since the rear pinion bearing is pressed on, each shim change normally involves pressing the bearing off the pressing it back on. To avoid this, take the old bearing and hone out the inside race so that it slips over the pinion shaft tightly, but loose enough to pull off by hand. Now, you can mock up the pinion height without going back and forth to the press. Once you have the correct shim in place, you can often get the bearing onto the pinion without a press by heating the bearing to about 300 degrees in an oven. You can usually remove the ring gear from the differential using a brass punch through the bolt holes in the differential flange. Lightly sand the differential flange and body where the ring gear goes to avoid binding on any burrs. Once you do this, you can usually get the ring gear on using by heating it in an oven. When mounting the hot ring gear you want to position the differential so you are pulling the gear up onto the flange, not pushing it down. This minimizes the possibilty of getting it stuck part way. Gears are hard, this means they are also brittle. Be careful not to drop them or strike them hard. The pinion bearing preload is very touchy. Even experienced mechanics often over torque the pinion nut. I don't know about the Z, but on most differentials, this means you have to start over with a new pinion crush sleave and pinion nut. You cannot simply back the pinion nut out to reduce the preload. Best to have several nuts and sleaves available. The differential is held in the carrier by two bearing caps. These are not interchangable from left to right so mark them before removing. The backlash is set by shims beside the differential side bearings. Eventually, you will need to drive in the shims to properly preload the bearings. This is much easier if you have at least one thick shim in the stack. Put the thin shims in first and drive the thick shim in last. Shim drivers exist, but I just use a brass drift punch. Backlash is checked using a dial indicator. Once you have it all correct, use gear marking compound to check the contact between the ring gear and pinion. If it is not correct, you get to start over.
What does NO ELF's mean RECYCLE PAPER - KEEP A TREE FROM BEING PLANTED 208.5 rwhp dynochart I deal in facts and figures, not feelings
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14:21:53 10/08/04
