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I have done full dynamat in four cars now (I have run the IASCA circut for years) but I have recently found a light weight altrnative. I have read some of the other post and the truth on dynamat is for a full text book install you should gut the interior and cover every single inch with two or three layers of dynamat ultra and max. Now you said a full dynamat and thats what it takes the reason is when mesuring sound quality on a RTA or real time analizer every little bit counts. At the end of the project you will add about 150 to 200 Lbs. of weight useing dynamat maby a little less on a Z because its a coupe. The good news is I have found a alternative that gives very close to the same results but only weighs 21 Lbs. on my Z. When I bought the Z I wanted a street beast so weight was of prime concern. My installer used a spray sound bairrer applied with a paint gun over the entire floor pan inside both doors and on the roof Apillers and trunk area. Then we used a VB-3 isolation barrier which looks like 1/4" plastic sheets and with a heat gun he molded them over the door pannles when it was done it looked like a door skin. We then applied VB-5 material same as three but thicker over the floor boards under the dash and in the trunk area. And then used dynamat for the hach lid and hard to reach places. Finnal result a grate install and almost eliminated any road noise and gratly improved the overall sound stage of the car. Now granted its a big job and not for everyone but its light sounds grate and next year will hopefully bring me to the nationals. Only one draw back now I cant hear all that power :( Hope this helps if you need any info on the VB barrier or distributors email me. Also the new Import Racer has a write up on this same set up done on a 800hp supra. The installer who did that one talked to my installer all trough the project so I would assume its pretty close.
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