I bought this Blue Z from the second owner Dec 2014. I executed a motor rebuild and light restoration documented here:
[ http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread....&highlight=BJ0 ]I really love this car, but it's my second Z and I do not have time for 2 Zs. This car is garaged in winter and driveway parked in nicer weather. For those that don't know...the color is rare. 1349 out of about 89,000 total imported to the US were made in this color. Nissan color code BJ0 - Azure Blue Pearl. A subset of this number were 2+0 and even fewer were factory manual 5 speeds. This is one of them. ~126k on the chassis
~2700 miles on the refreshed motor (break in was 50 miles, 200 miles, 1000 miles). I'm 1700 miles into the first oil duration on organic 5w30.
~74k miles on motor before refresh Motor/Bay Work Details:
-Block: galley plugs pulled, block honed and tanked
-Internals mic'ed and verified to meet FSM specs
-Genuine Nissan bearings, rings and gaskets; new valve stem seals
-New motor mounts
-Stock Nissan clutch w/ ~26k on it.
-Alt, PS Pump swapped from my other Z at 74k miles.
-New T-belt, idler studs, pulleys. Tensioner and water pump were already new from Nissan at 68k miles, so they were repurposed.
-New Thermostat
-New fuel filter (OEM)
-Deleted PRVR
-Deleted EGR (EGR manifold plug)
-Delete AIVs
-Delete carbon canister
-TB coolant line bypassed
-Had Coolant heater core pipes welded to eliminate need for TB coolant bypass hose Chassis/Driveline Details:
-Original Trans
-Replaced trans fluid with Redline MT-90
-Replaced diff fluid with Redline 75w-90
-Removed extra intake piping
-Corrected lower radiator support
-Swapped in newer power/alt harness from my other Z at 74k miles
-Rebuilt Power Steering Rack from Rackdoctor.net w/ new inner tie rod ends
-Installed new outer Tie Rod Ends
-Urethane steering rack bushings
-Swapped in newer Fog lights from White Z
-Genuine Jspec Corner lights
-Correct minor breaks in front bumper
-Painted calipers and rotor top hats to match
-Installed New rear PCV hose (silicone PCV Hose)
-Replaced all fuel lines in engine bay
-Remove upper clutch line bleeder and Tee Installed Clutch line union, Gates G49403-1010 and newer clutch termination hose
-Brake and Clutch Fluid fully bled; speed bleeders on all bleed cocks
-Installed New Clutch Fork Boot (OEM Clutch Boot)
-New OEM AC Dryer with Pigtail Harness
-Installed new AC system O-rings
-Radiator, Clutch, Fan, AC Lines, AC Compressor all swapped from the White Z (all components have 74K original miles)
-Completed 12V Switched Injector Mod
-Injectors replaced at 8k miles ago with OEM Genuine Nissan 270cc P1 Injectors
-Relocated PTU to under nose panel
-New accessory belts
-Injen Intake Pipes
-AMS lightweight pulleys
-Adjusted EBrake handle
-Installed New 1 Piece DS Inland Empire
-Deleted Rear Wiper and Sprayer (Can reinstall very quickly if desired)
-New shifter and e-Brake boots
-Installed new Karuma Z window moldings
-Installed Alpine 9883 with 3.5 aux jack for any phone to connect
-Patched/sewed DS seat bolster
-OEM catalytic converters from my White Z are currently installed. 74k original miles on them. Passed smog last spring. Exempt this year. Other notable aftermarket parts:
-Aftermarket headers. I blasted and respray with VHT paint
-Performance stainless steel catback exhaust. Looks just an old Stillen system, but there are no badges. Appears to be very well made and sounds great.
-Newer OEM EFI harness. Not brand new, but definitely replaced and is very pliable with all connectors intact and unbroken. This is a huge plus.
-JWT Socketed ECU
-JWT Pop Charger What could be improved:
1. AC was never recharged yet. The whole system is from my low mileage USDM, 74k mile chassis White Z and has a new dryer and all new O-rings installed. I drained the ester oil from the compressor too. Which means it can either be charge with R134a or R12. Either will work. It's due for inspection in May and I will request the AC be charged with R134a when in the shop. 2. It has an occasional warm start lifter tick. I'm still using organic 5w-30 until the 3k miles mark for the first normal oil change. I will switch to synthetic which could help. When it does happen it goes away about a minute after warm start 100% of the time. 3. The power antenna didn't work when I bought it. There's a dual antenna on these cars. The rear window antenna, embedded within the rear glass, works really well. There's a mod to flip the polarity of the antenna adapter on aftermarket head unit to solely use the rear glass antenna. The radio works perfectly, but the antenna was disabled. 4. The air vent direction will not change from defrost. Summary:
This Z fires right up and drives well. It passed inspection in May and passed smog with no issues. If it's kept under 5k miles a year, you'll be exempt from emissions from here on out. It's far from perfect, but is a very good example of a rust free BJ0 NAZ. Note: TT wheels pictured are not included with sale. I have full NA set of wheels with good rubber that will be swapped on in the event of a sale. Priced at $6000. If you feel that's unreasonable, but are interested, feel free to make an offer. Texts or calls are preferred. 
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1990 BJ0 NA Z32 Azure Blue Pearl - 
11:15:30 05/03/16
